Another lexicographer, Hesychius, informs us that [Greek:  Bapha] was the Lacedaemonian term for [Greek:  zomos]; and this, perhaps, was the genuine appellation for that which other Greeks expressed by a periphrasis, either in contempt or dislike, or because its colour was really dark, the juices of the meat being thoroughly extracted into it.  That it was nutritive and powerful may be inferred from what Plutarch mentions, that the older men were content to give up the meat to the younger ones, and live upon the broth only[10], which, had it been very poor, they would not have done.

When these remarks were commenced, it was for the purpose of showing, by means of a passage not generally referred to, what the ancients conceived the “black broth” to be, and that consequently, all idea of coffee entering into its composition was untenable.  How far this has been accomplished the reader must decide:  but I cannot quit the subject without expressing my sincere persuasion, founded upon a view of the authorities referred to, that the account given by Athenaeus is substantially correct.  Pig meat would be much in use with a people not disposed to take the trouble of preparing any other:  the animal was fit for nothing but food; and the refuse of their little farms would be sufficient for his keep.  Athenaeus also, in another passage, supplies us with a confirmation of the notion that the stock was made from pig, and this is stronger because it occurs incidentally.  It is found in a quotation from Matron, the maker of parodies, who, alluding to some person or other who had not got on very well at a Lacedaemonian feast, explains the cause of his failure to have been, that the black broth, and boiled odds and ends of pig meat, had beaten him;

“[Greek:  Damna min zomos te melas akrokolia t’ hephtha.]"[11]

That their cookery was not of a very recondite nature, is evident from what is mentioned by Plutarch, that the public meals were instituted at first in order to prevent their being in the hands of artistes and cooks[12], while to these every one sent a stated portion of provisions, so that there would neither be change nor variety in them.  Cooks again were sent out of Sparta, if they could do more than dress meat[13]; while the only seasoning allowed to them was salt and vinegar[14]; for which reason, perhaps, Meursius considers the composition of the [Greek:  zomos melas] to have been pork gravy seasoned with vinegar and salt[15], since there seemed to have been nothing else of which it could possibly have been made.

For MR. TREVELYAN’s suggestion of the cuttlefish, I am greatly obliged to him; but this was an Athenian dish, and too good for the severity of Spartan manners.  It is impossible not to smile at the idea of the distress which Cineparius must have felt, had he happened to witness the performances of any persons thus swallowing ink bottles by wholesale.

The passages which have been already quoted, {302} either by R.O. or myself, will probably give Mr. T. sufficient information of the principal ones in which the “black broth” is mentioned.