the first French kings; the site of a
fosse commune
attests the valor of republican martyrs; the Champs
Elysees are the popular earthly fields of a French
paradise. One
cafe is famed for the beauty
of its mistress, another for the great chess-players
who make it a resort; one is the daily rendezvous of
the liberals, another of royalists, one of military
men, another of artists; they flourish and fade with
dynasties, and are respectively the favorites of provincials
and citizens, gourmands and traders, men of letters
and men of state.[A] The
Monte de Piete acquaints
us with the vicissitudes and expedients of fortune;
the
Hotel Dieu is a temple of ancient charity;
the
Hospice des Enfants Trouvees startles us
with the astounding fact that half the children born
in Paris are illegitimate; and the Morgue yields no
less appalling statistics of suicide. In Vernet’s
studio we feel the predominance of military taste and
education in France; in the
Ecole Polytecnique,
the policy by which her youth are bred to serve their
country; at the manufactories of the Gobelines and
Sevres china, we perceive how naturally the mechanical
genius of the race finds development in pottery and
fabrics instead of ships and machines, as across the
Channel and beyond the ocean; and in the self-possession,
knowledge of affairs, and variety of occupation of
the middle class of women, we see why they have no
occasion to advocate their rights and complain of
the inequality of the sexes.
[Footnote A: ‘Mes habitudes de diner chez
les restaurants,’ says a Parisian philosopher,
’ont ete pour moi une source intarrissable de
surprises, de decouvertes, et de revelations sur l’humanite.’]
All large cities furnish daily material for tragedy,
and life there, keenly observed and aptly narrated,
proves continually how much more strange is truth
than fiction; but the impressive manners and melo-dramatic
taste of the people, as well as their intricate police
system, bring out more vividly these latent points
of interest, as a reference to the Causes Celebres
and the Memoirs of Vidocq illustrate. A friend
of mine, returning from a trip to Lyons, became acquainted
in the rail-car with an English gentleman, and when
they reached the station, just before midnight, the
two left for their hotels in the same cab. After
a short drive, the vehicle suddenly came to a halt,
the cabman sprang to the ground, and his passengers
were left to surmise the occasion of their abrupt
abandonment: presently a crowd collected, a shout
was raised, and they learned that a valise had been
stolen from the top of the carriage, and its owner
had set off in pursuit of the thief. He ran with
great swiftness, doubled corners, sprang over obstacles,
and was in a fair way to distance his pursuer, when
a soldier thrust out his foot and tripped up the fugitive,
who was taken to the nearest police station.
Confronted with the owner of the valise, he declared