a gigantic, badly formed horseshoe rising high above the collar of the trotter.  To the top of the duga is attached the bearing-rein, and underneath the highest part of it is fastened a big bell—­in the southern provinces I found two, and sometimes even three bells—­which, when the country is open and the atmosphere still, may be heard a mile off.  The use of the bell is variously explained.  Some say it is in order to frighten the wolves, and others that it is to avoid collisions on the narrow forest-paths.  But neither of these explanations is entirely satisfactory.  It is used chiefly in summer, when there is no danger of an attack from wolves; and the number of bells is greater in the south, where there are no forests.  Perhaps the original intention was—­I throw out the hint for the benefit of a certain school of archaeologists—­to frighten away evil spirits; and the practice has been retained partly from unreasoning conservatism, and partly with a view to lessen the chances of collisions.  As the roads are noiselessly soft, and the drivers not always vigilant, the dangers of collision are considerably diminished by the ceaseless peal.

Altogether, the tarantass is well adapted to the conditions in which it is used.  By the curious way in which the horses are harnessed it recalls the war-chariot of ancient times.  The horse in the shafts is compelled by the bearing-rein to keep his head high and straight before him—­though the movement of his ears shows plainly that he would very much like to put it somewhere farther away from the tongue of the bell—­but the side horses gallop freely, turning their heads outwards in classical fashion.  I believe that this position is assumed not from any sympathy on the part of these animals for the remains of classical art, but rather from the natural desire to keep a sharp eye on the driver.  Every movement of his right hand they watch with close attention, and as soon as they discover any symptoms indicating an intention of using the whip they immediately show a desire to quicken the pace.

Now that the reader has gained some idea of what a tarantass is, we may return to the modes of travelling through the regions which are not yet supplied with railways.

However enduring and long-winded horses may be, they must be allowed sometimes, during a long journey, to rest and feed.  Travelling long distances with one’s own horses is therefore necessarily a slow operation, and is now quite antiquated.  People who value their time prefer to make use of the Imperial Post organisation.  On all the principal lines of communication there are regular post-stations, at from ten to twenty miles apart, where a certain number of horses and vehicles are kept for the convenience of travellers.  To enjoy the privilege of this arrangement, one has to apply to the proper authorities for a podorozhnaya—­a large sheet of paper stamped with the Imperial Eagle, and bearing the name of the recipient, the destination, and the number of horses to be supplied.  In return, a small sum is paid for imaginary road-repairs; the rest of the sum is paid by instalments at the respective stations.