Scientific American Supplement, No. 520, December 19, 1885 eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 117 pages of information about Scientific American Supplement, No. 520, December 19, 1885.

Scientific American Supplement, No. 520, December 19, 1885 eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 117 pages of information about Scientific American Supplement, No. 520, December 19, 1885.

If a piece of wood with a knot be chosen for this side of the frame, so much the better.  Immediately over the hole, L, a wooden pin should be fixed in the lid, and of such length that it will press the short arm of lever down sufficiently.  It should fit the hole pretty closely.

At the other end, a corresponding pin and hole should be made, and, say, two along the front.  These will then look as if they were intended merely as fittings to hold the lid in position.  The lid at the other end of the box from the movable panel should have a stop of some sort; the ordinary brass joint stop will do as well as any, and should be strong.  The reason for placing it at what I may call “the other end” is that, when the box is being examined, it will attract notice, and draw attention from the movable panel end.

We may now finally adjust the loose panel, which must fit tight at top and bottom, and be slightly beveled, as shown on section.  Two holes must also be cut through it, at such a distance from each other that a finger and thumb can be put through them, so as to allow of the panel being moved.  In the deep grooving in front also put a couple of springs, say pieces of clock springs, as shown, I, I, Fig, 2.  These serve to assist the bolt, D, by pushing the panel into position.

Holes to match those in end panel must also be cut in the other panels, and when a lock, preferably a padlock, has been fitted, the box is complete.

I don’t know whether it is necessary to say that the lid should be hinged at the back, and of course it will add to the appearance of the box if it be polished or oiled.

Now, for those who may not have seen the locked and corded box trick performed, a few words of caution may not be out of place.  Don’t forget to have something in a pocket easily got at that will serve to push the bolt out, before going into the box.  A piece of stout wire, a small pencil case, or anything of that sort will do.  Be careful when getting into the box to lie with your head toward the loose panel end, and face toward the front—­as there will be no space to turn round; the right hand will then be uppermost and free to push the bolt out.  Having done this, grasp the panel with the finger and thumb by means of the two holes, push it to the front of the box, when the back edge will be clear of the groove.  It can now easily be pulled into the box, and the performer can creep out.  When out, refix panel and bolt so that everything looks as it was.  Any cording that may be over the end of the box will give sufficiently to allow of exit.

I have, I think, made it quite clear that padlock and ropes have nothing to do with the real performance of the trick, but they serve to mystify spectators, who may be allowed to knot the rope and seal the knots in any way they choose.

There must always be a screen or curtain to hide the box from the spectators while the performer is getting in or out.—­D.B.  Adamson, in Amateur Work.

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Scientific American Supplement, No. 520, December 19, 1885 from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.