Cactus Culture for Amateurs eBook

William Watson (poet)
This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 228 pages of information about Cactus Culture for Amateurs.

Cactus Culture for Amateurs eBook

William Watson (poet)
This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 228 pages of information about Cactus Culture for Amateurs.
the size of hazel nuts.  Lime rubbish, i.e., old plaster from buildings, &c., is sometimes recommended for Cactuses, but it does not appear to be of any use except as drainage.  At Kew its use has been discontinued, and it is now generally condemned by all good cultivators.  Of course, the idea that lime was beneficial to Cactuses sprang from the knowledge that it existed in large quantities in the soil in which the plants grew naturally, and it is often found in abundance, in the form of oxalate of lime, in the old stems of the plants.  But in good loam, lime, in the state of chalk, is always present, and this, together with the lime contained in the brick rubble, is sufficient to supply the plants with as much as they require.

For Epiphyllums and Rhipsalis, both of which are epiphytal naturally, but which are found to thrive best in pots in our houses, a mixture of equal parts of peat and loam with sand and brick rubble in the same proportion as before recommended, will be found most suitable.  Leaf mould is sometimes used for these plants; but unless really good it is best left out of the soil.  The finest Epiphyllums have been grown in a soil which consists almost wholly of a light fibry loam, with the addition of a little crushed bones.

Potting.—­Cactuses, when healthy, are injuriously affected by frequent disturbance at the roots.  On the arrival of the potting season, which for these plants is in April and May, established plants should be examined at the root, and if the roots are found to be in a healthy condition, and the soil sweet, they should be replaced in the same pots to continue in them another year.  If the roots are decayed, or the soil has become sour, it should be shaken away from the roots, which must be examined, cutting away all decayed portions, and shortening the longest roots to within a few inches of the base of the plant.  Cactuses are so tenacious of life, and appear to rely so little on their roots, that it will be found the wisest plan, when repotting them, to cut the roots thoroughly.

The size of pots most suitable is what would be considered small in comparison with other plants, Cactuses preferring to be somewhat cramped in this respect.  This, indeed, is how they are found when wild, the roots generally fixing themselves in the crevices of the rocks or stones about which the plants grow, so that a large specimen is often found to have only a few inches of space in the cleft of a rock for the whole of its roots.  When thus limited, growth is firmer and the flowers are produced in much greater profusion than when a liberal amount of root space is afforded.  The pots should be well drained-about one-fifth of their depth filled with drainage when intended for large, strong-growing kinds, and one-third for the smaller ones, such as Mamillarias.  A layer of rough fibry material should be placed over the crocks to prevent the finer soil from stopping the drainage.  When filling in the soil, press it down firmly, spreading the roots well amongst it, and keeping the base of the plant only an inch or so below the surface.

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Cactus Culture for Amateurs from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.