friend the Marchioness A. Visconti, a Milanese.  She is a specimen of the really high-bred lady, such as I have not known.  Without any physical beauty, the grace and harmony of her manners produce all the impression of beauty.  She has also a mind strong, clear, precise, and much cultivated.  She has a modest nobleness that you would dearly love.  She is intimate with many of the first men.  She seems to love me much, and to wish I should have whatever is hers.  I take great pleasure in her friendship.

TO R.W.E.

Rome, Oct. 28, 1847.—­I am happily settled for the winter, quite by myself, in a neat, tranquil apartment in the Corso, where I see all the motions of Rome,—­in a house of loving Italians, who treat me well, and do not interrupt me, except for service.  I live alone, eat alone, walk alone, and enjoy unspeakably the stillness, after all the rush and excitement of the past year.

I shall make no acquaintance from whom I do not hope a good deal, as my time will be like pure gold to me this winter; and, just for happiness, Rome itself is sufficient.

To-day is the last of the October feasts of the Trasteverini.  I have been, this afternoon, to see them dancing.  This morning I was out, with half Rome, to see the Civic Guard manoeuvring in that great field near the tomb of Cecilia Metella, which is full of ruins.  The effect was noble, as the band played the Bolognese march, and six thousand Romans passed in battle array amid these fragments of the great time.

TO R.F.F.

Rome, Oct. 29, 1847.—­I am trying to economize,—­anxious to keep the Roman expenses for six months within the limits of four hundred dollars.  Rome is not as cheap a place as Florence, but then I would not give a pin to live in Florence.

We have just had glorious times with the October feasts, when all the Roman people were out.  I am now truly happy here, quiet and familiar; no longer a staring, sight-seeing stranger, riding about finely dressed in a coach to see muses and sibyls.  I see these forms now in the natural manner, and am contented.

Keep free from false ties; they are the curse of life.  I find myself so happy here, alone and free.

TO M.S.

Rome, Oct. 1847.—­I arrived in Rome again nearly a fortnight ago, and all mean things were forgotten in the joy that rushed over me like a flood.  Now I saw the true Rome.  I came with no false expectations, and I came to live in tranquil companionship, not in the restless impertinence of sight-seeing, so much more painful here than anywhere else.

I had made a good visit to Vicenza; a truly Italian town, with much to see and study.  But all other places faded away, now that I again saw St. Peter’s, and heard the music of the fountains.