but, you see, there was a long engagement to meet
Mrs. Jameson here, and she expressed a very kind unwillingness
to leave Italy without keeping it: also she had
resolved to come out of her way on purpose for this,
and, as I had the consent of my physician, we determined
to perform our part of the compact; and in order to
prepare for the longer journey I went out in the carriage
a little too soon, perhaps, and a little too long.
At least, if I had kept quite still I should have been
strong by this time—not that I have done
myself harm in the serious sense, observe—and
now the affair is accomplished, I shall be wonderfully
discreet and self-denying, and resist Venuses and Apollos
like some one wiser than the gods themselves.
My chest is very well; there has been no symptom of
evil in that quarter.... We took the whole coupe
of the diligence—but regretted our first
plan of the vettura nevertheless—and
now are settled in very comfortable rooms in the ‘Via
delle Belle Donne’ just out of the Piazza Santa
Maria Novella, very superior rooms to our apartment
in Pisa, in which we were cheated to the uttermost
with all the subtlety of Italy and to the full extent
of our ignorance; think what that must have
been! Our present apartment, with the hire of
a grand piano and music, does not cost us so much
within ever so many francisconi. Oh, and you don’t
frighten me though we are on the north side of the
Arno! We have taken our rooms for two months,
and may be here longer, and the fear of the heat was
stronger with me than the fear of the cold, or we might
have been in the Pitti and ‘arrostiti’
by this time. We expected dear Mrs. Jameson on
Saturday, but she came on Friday evening, having suddenly
remembered that it was Shakespeare’s birthday,
and bringing with her from Arezzo a bottle of wine
to ’drink to his memory with two other poets,’
so there was a great deal of merriment, as you may
fancy, and Robert played Shakespeare’s favorite
air, ‘The Light of Love,’ and everybody
was delighted to meet everybody, and Roman news and
Pisan dullness were properly discussed on every side.
She saw a good deal of Cobden in Rome, and went with
him to the Sistine Chapel. He has no feeling
for art, and, being very true and earnest, could only
do his best to try to admire Michael Angelo;
but here and there, where he understood, the pleasure
was expressed with a blunt characteristic simplicity.
Standing before the statue of Demosthenes, he said:
’That man is persuaded himself of what he speaks,
and will therefore persuade others.’ She
liked him exceedingly. For my part, I should
join in more admiration if it were not for his having
accepted money, but paid patriots are no heroes
of mine. ’Verily they have their reward.’
O’Connell had arrived in Rome, and it was considered
that he came only to die. Among the artists, Gibson
and Wyatt were doing great things; she wishes us to
know Gibson particularly. As to the Pope he lives
in an atmosphere of love and admiration, and ’he


