to drink to the traveller, and had commented freely to Gallman on this lack of hospitality, so different from his country’s habits.  We had nothing to complain of, however, on this score at Lubuagan, for basi circulated freely the whole day, being passed along sometimes in a tin cup, at others in a bamboo; everybody drank out of one and the same vessel.  On the whole, this basi was poor stuff, not nearly so good as bubud.  Harris told me after the day was over, and we had taken innumerable tastes, at least, of the brew (for one must drink when it is passed), that in preparing basi a dog’s heart, [40] cut up into bits, is added to the fermenting liquid to give it body.  One man amused us by going around with a bamboo six inches or more in diameter and at least eight feet in length over his shoulder, and obligingly stopping to let his friends bend down the mouth and help themselves—­a “long” drink if there ever was one!

But it was not all basi and dancing:  councils were held, the visiting rancherias profiting by the opportunity of enforced peace to clear up issues.  At these councils, which came off in the open, on the parade, the people of the rancherias interested would sit on the ground in a circle, maintaining absolute silence, while their spokesmen, a head man from each, walked around in the circle.  The man who had the floor, so to say, would remain behind and address his adversary in the debate, who meantime kept on walking around with his back turned squarely on the speaker.  As soon as the argument in hand had been made, both would countermarch, and the listener would now become the speaker.  A great part of the debate was taken up on both sides by a recital of the crimes and misdemeanors of which the other party had been guilty.  In one of these councils, one debater—­wearing civilized dress, by the way—­suddenly broke through the circle and disappeared, much to our astonishment, until it was explained that his opponent in the debate had charged him with having recently poisoned six persons; as this was perilously near the truth, the criminal simply ran away.  The accuser was a fine-looking man, splendidly dressed, of a haughty countenance, displaying the greatest contempt for all the arguments addressed to him, his impatience being marked by “Has!” accompanied by stamping on the ground the while and striking it with the butt of his spear.  This chief was in confinement at Lubuagan, but, to save his face, Governor Hale had enlarged him during our stay.

Naturally there was an opportunity during the day of observing many things in some detail.  Who shall say, for example, that the Kalingas are not civilized?  The women and girls all wear bustles, a continuous affair made of bejuco, an endless roll, in short, of varying radius, that over the small of the back being considerably the greatest.  The top of the skirt is tucked in all round, instead of being directly on the skin, as farther south.