bank of a clean, cheerful stream.  However, the inevitable gansas were here, but silent; one of them tied by its string to a human jaw-bone as a handle.  This, it seems, is the fashionable and correct way to carry a gansa.  At Talubin the sun came out, and so did some bottles of excellent red wine which the Bishop and his priests were kind enough to give us.  But we did not tarry long, for Bontok was still some miles away.  So we said good-bye to the Bishop and his staff and continued on our way.  The country changed its aspect on leaving Talubin:  the hills are lower and more rounded, and many pines appeared.  The trail was decidedly better, but turned and twisted right and left, up and down.  The country began to take on an air of civilization—­why not?  We were nearing the provincial capital; some paddies and fields were even fenced.  At last, it being now nearly five of the afternoon, we struck a longish descent; at its foot was a broad stream, on the other side of which we could see Bontok, with apparently the whole of its population gathered on the bank to receive us.  And so it was:  the grown-ups farther back, with marshalled throngs of children on the margin itself.  As we drew near, these began to sing; while fording, the strains sounded familiar, and for cause:  as we emerged, the “Star-Spangled Banner” burst full upon us, the shock being somewhat tempered by the gansas we could hear a little ahead.  We rode past, got in, and went to our several quarters, Gallman and I to Governor Evans’s cool and comfortable bungalow.

I took advantage of the remaining hour or so of daylight to get a general view of things.  One’s first impression of the Bontok Igorot is that he is violent and turbulent; it is perhaps more correct to say that, as compared with the Ifugao, he lacks discipline.  It is certain that he is taller, without being stronger or more active or better built; in fact, as one goes north, the tribes increase in height and in wildness.  The women share in the qualities noted.  Both men and women were all over the place, and much vigorous dancing was going on.  Using the same gansa as the Ifugao, the Igorot beats it on the convex side with a regular padded drumstick, whereas the Ifugao uses any casual stick on the concave side.  Moreover, the Bontok dancers went around their circle, beating their gansas the while, in a sort of lope, the step being vigorous, long, easy, and high; as in all the other dances seen, the motion was against the sun.  The gansa beat seemed to be at uniform intervals, all full notes.  While our friends the Ifugaos were, on the whole, a quiet lot, these Bontok people seemed to be fond of making a noise, of shouting, of loud laughter.  They appeared to be continually moving about, back and forth, restlessly and rapidly as though excited.  On the whole, the impression produced by these people was not particularly agreeable; you felt that, while you might like the Banawe, you would always be on your guard against the Bontok.  But it must be recollected that we had no such opportunity to see these people as we enjoyed in the case of Banawe and Andangle.  The occasion was more exciting; they were more on show.  It is not maintained that these are characteristics, simply that they appeared to be this afternoon and, indeed, during the remainder of our stay.