Their next troublesome experience, although not so long continued, is almost as exhausting, for when the forest is left behind they enter on a marshy waste, through which they are compelled to ride for two hours.  Finally, worn out with fatigue, hunger and thirst, they arrive at an estancia, where sleeping accommodations are offered them in the shape of the under side of a cart, nourishment in the shape of fire wherewith to cook a mutus, and assistance comes in the persons of two servants, whose service consists in aiding M. Forgues and his companion to devour, without thanks, salt or manioc, the frugal supper.  After that, “Good-night to you!” At daybreak our traveler takes his departure from his churlish—­or, it may be, hungry—­entertainers, tending in the direction of the foundry of Ibicuy, where in the days of Lopez was smelted the iron ore of San Miguel.  Before the war this foundry was a small model establishment with a handsome tile-covered roof, and was thoroughly equipped for the purpose to which it was devoted.  All the machinery was destroyed by the Brazilians, and the foundry was left a wreck.  Near by is the estancia of Margarita Rivarola, where our traveler and his companion stop to breakfast.  Margarita is a poor widow with a beautiful daughter.  She is a cousin of a former president of the republic, but so destitute did M. Forgues find her that she and her daughter led an existence bordering on starvation.  As in the case of his entertainment at the dwelling of Don Matias, he fortunately brings his breakfast with him.  He had killed that morning an ara, a beautiful bird, but not so pleasant to the taste, and this constitutes the meal.

Leaving this spot, and traveling five leagues farther in the direction of Paraguari, M. Forgues and his companion reach the village of Mbuyapey at eight o’clock at night.  Here they meet with an adventure.  As they enter the village three men, composing the guard of the place and armed with rusty pikes of the Lopez period, challenge them and order them to halt.  An interview is held in the darkness, and after a thousand explanations they are permitted to pass.  Early next morning they are aroused from sleep by a tumult at their window.  Through the grating a number of boys are glaring in on them, capering and uttering a variety of ejaculations.  The secret of this popular demonstration is soon explained, for almost at the same moment the door is opened abruptly and the magistrate of the place makes his appearance, asking in Spanish to see their passports and the passports of their horses.  The dispute thickens.  Finally, M. Forgues, toying with his revolver, proclaims that he and his companion are Frenchmen, and not Paraguayans, that no passports are necessary to travel in the country, and that they cannot be interfered with with impunity.  At this a change comes over the magistrate.  He begs a thousand pardons, and justifies his course as being merely in the interest of good order, while