Put arm of switch on point No. 1 and lower one of the top disks in jar No. 1 and make contact with wire above jars.  The current then will flow through the motor.  The speed for each point can be determined by lowering top disks in jars.  The top disk in jar No. 2 is lower down than in No. 1 and so on for No. 3 and No. 4.  The connection between point No. 5 on switch, direct to wire across jars, gives full current and full speed.

** How to Build a Toboggan Sled [44] By A. BOETTE

The first object of the builder of a sled should be to have a “winner” both in speed and appearance.  The accompanying instructions for building a sled are designed to produce these results.

The sled completed should be 15 ft. 2 in. long by 22 in. wide, with the cushion about 15 in. above the ground.  For the baseboard select a pine board 15 ft. long, 11 in. wide and 2 in. thick, and plane it on all edges.  Fit up the baseboard with ten oak foot-rests 22 in. long, 3 in. wide and 3/4 in. thick.  Fasten them on the under side of the baseboard at right angles to its length and 16 in. apart, beginning at the rear.  At the front 24 or 26 in. will be left without cross bars for fitting on the auto front.  On the upper side of the cross bars at their ends on each side screw a piece of oak 1 in. square by 14 ft. long.  On the upper side of the baseboard at its edge on each side screw an oak strip 3 in. wide by 3/4 in. thick and the length of the sled from the back to the auto front.  These are to keep the cushion from falling out.  See Fig. 1.  For the back of the sled use the upper part of a child’s high chair, taking out the spindles and resetting them in the rear end of the baseboard.  Cover up the outside of the spindles with a piece of galvanized iron.

The construction of the runners is shown by Figs. 2 and 3.  The stock required for them is oak, two pieces 30 in. by 5 in. by 1-1/4 in., two pieces 34 in. by 5 in. by 1-1/4 in., two pieces 14 in. by 6 in. by 2 in., and four pieces 14 in. by 2 in. by 1 in.  They should be put together with large screws about 3 in. long.  Use no nails, as they are not substantial enough.  In proportioning them the points A, B and C, Fig. 2, are important.  For the front runners these measurements are:  A, 30 in.; B, 4 in.; C, 15-1/2 in., and for the rear runners:  A, 34 in.; B, 7 in. ; C, 16-1/2 in.  The screw eyes indicated must be placed in a straight line and the holes for them carefully centered.  A variation of 1/16 in. one way or another would cause a great deal of trouble.  For the steel runners use 3/8 in. cold-rolled steel flattened at the ends for screw holes.  Use no screws on the running surface, however, as they “snatch” the ice.

The mechanism of the front steering gear is shown at Fig. 3.  A 3/4-in. steel rod makes a good steering rod.  Flatten the steering rod at one end and sink it into the wood.  Hold it in place by means of an iron plate drilled to receive the rod and screwed to block X. An iron washer, Z, is used to reduce friction; bevel block K to give a rocker motion.  Equip block X with screw eyes, making them clear those in the front runner, and bolt through.  For the rear runner put a block with screw eyes on the baseboard and run a bolt through.