The next stage is the application of the sensitizer, for which purpose the two following solutions must be made up and then mixed: 

    Silver nitrate 120 gr. 
    Water 1 oz.

Citric acid      50 gr. 
Water             1oz.

The mixture is spread evenly over the silk with a soft camel’s-hair brush.  There must be no metal in the mounting of the brush that is used.

Particular care must be taken to see that no particle of the surface of the silk is left uncovered.  The best way to insure this is to brush the liquid over the silk, first in one direction and then crosswise.  The process of sensitizing must be done in a weak artificial light, such as at night by ordinary gas or lamp light, or in the very feeblest daylight.

The silk is then again fastened up and allowed to dry, but it is now sensitive to the light and the drying must therefore be done in the dark.  It is ready for printing as soon as it is dry, and as it does not keep well in the sensitive condition, it should be used up within a few days at the most.

The printing, which is done in daylight, is carried on in the same way as for printing-out papers, except that the silk should be printed a little darker than usual.  It will be found convenient to gum the edges slightly, and then to fix the silk on a stiff piece of paper before putting it into the printing frame.  If this precaution is not adopted there is a tendency for the silk to slip or crease when it is being examined.  The silk must be handled carefully while in the printing frame for this reason, but apart from that, there is no particular difficulty.  The paper can be taken off when the printing is finished.

Prints on silk are toned, fixed and washed in the same way as ordinary silver prints.  The washing should be thorough, and before the prints are quite dry, they should be ironed to remove all creases.

** Removing Old Paint [396]

A chair more than a hundred years old came to me by inheritance.  It was originally painted green and had been given two coats of dark paint or varnish within the last 30 years.  Desiring to improve the appearance of the relic, I decided to remove the paint and give it a mahogany stain.  The usual paint removers would readily take off the two latter coats but had no effect upon the first.  I tried to remove the troublesome green in various ways, but with little success until I applied a hot, saturated solution of concentrated lye.  By coating the paint with this repeatedly, applying one coat upon another for two days, and then using a stiff brush, the layer was easily and completely removed.  —­Contributed by Thos.  R. Baker, Chicago, Ill.

** A Window Lock [397]

Bore a hole through the sash of the lower window and halfway through the sash of the upper window, where they meet in the center, and insert a heavy nail or spike.  This will fasten the sash together so well that nothing short of a crowbar can pry them apart.  The nail can be easily removed when the windows are to be opened.