When the negative is larger than the lantern-slide plate, and it is desirable to reduce the entire view upon the slide, a little extra work will be necessary.  Select a room with one window, if possible, and fit a light-proof frame into it to keep out all light with the exception of a hole in which to place the negative, as shown in Fig. 1.  Unless this hole is on a line with the sky it will be necessary to place a sheet of white cardboard at an angle of 45 deg. on the outside of the frame to reflect the light through the negative as shown in Fig. 2.  Make or secure an inside kit to place in the plate holder of your camera to hold the lantern slide plate as shown in Fig. 3.  Draw lines with a pencil, outlining on the ground glass of the camera the size of the lantern slide plate, and in the place where the plate will be in the plate holder when placed in position in the camera.  This will enable you to focus to the proper size.  Place the camera in front of the hole in the frame, place the negative in the hole and focus the camera for the lantern slide size.  Expose with a medium stop for about 20 seconds and treat the plate the same as with the contact exposure.

When dry the lantern slide plate may be tinted any color by means of liquid colors.  These can be purchased from any photo material store.  In coloring the slide plate it is only necessary to moisten the gelatine film from time to time with a piece of cloth dampened in water.  The colors may then be spread evenly with a soft brush, which should be kept in motion to prevent spots.

The slide is put together by placing a mat made of black paper, as shown in Fig. 4, on the gelatine side of the lantern slide, A, Fig. 5, and then a plain glass, B, over the mat, C, and the three bound together with passepartout tape, D. Contrasty negatives make the best slides, but the lantern slide plate should be made without any attempt to gain density.

** How to make A porch swing chair [128]

The material needed for making this porch swing chair are two pieces of round wood 2-1/2 in. in diameter and 20 in. long, and two pieces 1-1/4 in. in diameter and 40 in. long.  These longer pieces can be made square, but for appearance it is best to have them round or square with the corners rounded.  A piece of canvas, or other stout cloth, 16 in. wide and 50 in. long, is to be used for the seat.  The two short pieces of wood are used for the ends of the chair and two 1-in. holes are bored in each end of them 1-1/2 in. from the ends, and between the holes and the ends grooves are cut around them to make a place to fasten ropes, as shown at B, Fig. 1.  The two longer pieces are used for the sides and a tenon is cut on each end of them to fit in the 1-in. holes bored in the end pieces, as shown at A, Fig. 1.  The canvas is now tacked on the end pieces and the pieces given one turn before placing the mortising together.

[Illustration:  Swing Chair]