and homeward.  I first got acquainted with my own countrymen there.  At Rome, too, it was not much better.  But here in Florence, and in the summer-time, and in this secluded villa, I have escaped out of all my old tracks, and am really remote.

“I like my present residence immensely.  The house stands on a hill, overlooking Florence, and is big enough to quarter a regiment; insomuch that each member of the family, including servants, has a separate suite of apartments, and there are vast wildernesses of upper rooms into which we have never yet sent exploring expeditions.

“At one end of the house there is a moss-grown tower, haunted by owls and by the ghost of a monk, who was confined there in the thirteenth century, previous to being burned at the stake in the principal square of Florence.  I hire this villa, tower and all, at twenty-eight dollars a month; but I mean to take it away bodily and clap it into a romance, which I have in my head ready to be written out.

“Speaking of romances, I have planned two, one or both of which I could have ready for the press in a few months if I were either in England or America.  But I find this Italian atmosphere not favorable to the close toil of composition, although it is a very good air to dream in.  I must breathe the fogs of old England or the east-winds of Massachusetts, in order to put me into working trim.  Nevertheless, I shall endeavor to be busy during the coming winter at Rome, but there will be so much to distract my thoughts that I have little hope of seriously accomplishing anything.  It is a pity; for I have really a plethora of ideas, and should feel relieved by discharging some of them upon the public.

“We shall continue here till the end of this month, and shall then return to Rome, where I have already taken a house for six months.  In the middle of April we intend to start for home by the way of Geneva and Paris; and, after spending a few weeks in England, shall embark for Boston in July or the beginning of August.  After so long an absence (more than five years already, which will be six before you see me at the old Corner), it is not altogether delightful to think of returning.  Everybody will be changed, and I myself, no doubt, as much as anybody.  Ticknor and you, I suppose, were both upset in the late religious earthquake, and when I inquire for you the clerks will direct me to the ‘Business Men’s Conference.’  It won’t do.  I shall be forced to come back again and take refuge in a London lodging.  London is like the grave in one respect,—­any man can make himself at home there; and whenever a man finds himself homeless elsewhere, he had better either die or go to London.

“Speaking of the grave reminds me of old age and other disagreeable matters; and I would remark that one grows old in Italy twice or three times as fast as in other countries.  I have three gray hairs now for one that I brought from England, and I shall look venerable indeed by next summer, when I return.

    “Remember me affectionately to all my friends.  Whoever has a
    kindness for me may be assured that I have twice as much for him.”