the lack of rain; but that is not, of course, so bad
in the mountains; and with no persistent, nagging
wind to pick it up and fling it spitefully at you,
you soon get not to mind it at all. But of summer
in the coast country it is hard to speak tolerantly.
The perfect flower of its unloveliness flourishes
in San Francisco, and, more or less hardily, all along
the coast. From the time the rains cease—generally
some time in May —through the six-months’
period of their cessation, the programme for the day
is, with but few exceptions, unvaried. Fog in
the morning —chilling, penetrating fog,
which obscures the rays of the morning sun completely,
and, dank and “clinging like cerements,”
swathes every thing with its soft, gray folds.
On the bay it hangs, heavy and chill, blotting out
everything but the nearest objects, and at a little
distance hardly distinguishable from the water itself.
At such times is heard the warning-cry of the foghorns
at Fort Point, Goat Island, and elsewhere—a
sound which probably is more like that popularly supposed
to be produced by an expiring cow in her last agony
than any thing else, but which is not like that or
any thing in the world but a foghorn. The fog
of the morning, however, gives way to the wind of the
afternoon, which, complete master of the situation
by three o’clock P.M., holds stormy sway till
sunset. No gentle zephyr this, to softly sway
the delicate flower or just lift the fringe on the
maiden’s brow, but what seamen call a “spanking
breeze,” that does not hesitate to knock off
the hat that is not fastened tightly both fore and
aft to the underlying head, or to fling sand and dust
into any exposed eye, and which dances around generally
among skirts and coat-tails with untiring energy and
persistency. To venture out on the streets of
San Francisco at such times is really no trifling
matter; and to one not accustomed to it, or to one
of a non-combative disposition, the performance is
not a pleasant one. Still the streets are always
full of hurrying passengers; for, whether attributable
to the extra amount of vitality and vim that this
bracing climate imparts to its children, or to a more
direct and obvious cause, the desire to get indoors
again as soon as possible, the fact remains the same—that
the people of California walk faster than do those
of almost any other country. Not only men either,
who with their coats buttoned up to their chins, and
hats jammed tightly over their half-shut eyes, present
a tolerably secure surface to the attacks of the wind,
but their fairer sisters too can be seen, with their
fresh cheeks and bright eyes protected by jaunty veils,
scudding along in the face or the track of the wind,
as the case may he, with wonderful skill and grace,
looking as trim and secure as to rigging as the lightest
schooner in full sail on their own bay.
But it is after the sun has gone down from the cloudless sky, and the sea has recalled its breezes to slumber for the night, that the fulfillment of the law of compensation is made evident in this matter. The nights are of silver, if the days be not of gold. And all over the State this blessing of cool, comfortable nights is spread. At any season, one can draw a pair of blankets over him upon retiring, sure of sound, refreshing slumber, unless assailed by mental or physical troubles to which even this glorious climate of California cannot minister.


