The men stamp with their feet on the ground, jerk their heads backwards and forwards, and certainly throw themselves into worse contortions than those who are described as having been in old times “vexed with a devil.”  During the exercise they snatch the covering from their heads, and gradually take off all their clothes, with the exception of shirt and trousers.  The two high priests who stand within the circle receive the garments one after another, kiss them, and lay them on a heap together.  The priests beat time with their hands, and after the garments have been laid aside the dance becomes faster and faster.  Heavy drops of perspiration stand on every brow; some are even foaming at the mouth.  The howling and roaring at length reach such a dreadful pitch, that the spectator feels stunned and bewildered.

Suddenly one of these maniacs fell lifeless to the ground.  The priests and a few from the circle hurried towards him, stretched him out flat, crossed his hands and feet, and covered him with a cloth.

The doctor and I were both considerably alarmed, for we thought the poor man had been seized with apoplexy.  To our surprise and joy, however, we saw him about six or eight minutes afterwards suddenly throw off the cloth, jump up, and once more take his place in the circle to howl like a maniac.

At three o’clock the ceremony concluded.  I would not advise any person afflicted with weak nerves to witness it, for he certainly could not endure the sight.  I could have fancied myself among raving lunatics and men possessed, rather than amidst reasonable beings.  It was long before I could recover my composure, and realise the idea that the infatuation of man could attain such a pitch.  I was informed that before the ceremony they swallow opium, to increase the wildness of their excitement!

The Achmaidon (place of arrows) deserves a visit, on account of the beautiful view obtained thence; the traveller should see it, if he be not too much pressed for time.  This is the place which the Sultan sometimes honours by his presence when he wishes to practise archery.

On an open space stands a kind of pulpit of masonry, from which the Sultan shoots arrows into the air without mark or aim.  Where the arrow falls, a pillar or pyramid is erected to commemorate the remarkable event.  The whole space is thus covered with a number of these monuments, most of them broken and weather-stained, and all scattered in the greatest confusion.  Not far from this place is an imperial kiosk, with a garden.  Both promise much when viewed from a distance, but realise nothing when seen from within.

The tower in Galata.

Whoever wishes to appreciate in its fullest extent the charm of the views round Constantinople should ascend the tower in Galata near Pera, or the Serasker in Constantinople.  According to my notion, the former course is preferable.  In this tower there is a room with twelve windows placed in a circle, from which we see pictures such as the most vivid imagination could hardly create.