I visited the Villa Borghese on a Sunday, when there is a great bustle here; for a stream of people on foot, on horseback, and in carriages, sets in towards its beautiful park, situate just beyond the Piazza del Popolo, in the same way that the crowds flock to our beloved “Prater” on a fine day in spring.  I also saw the Villa Medicis and the Villa Pamfili.  The latter boasts a very extensive park.

I took care to visit most of the churches.  My plan was to go out early in the morning, and to inspect several churches until about eleven o’clock, when it was time to repair to the galleries.  When I went to the principal churches,—­for instance, those of St. John of Lateran, St. Paul, St. Maria Maggiore, St. Lawrence, and St. Sebastian,—­I was always accompanied by a guide specially appointed to conduct strangers to the churches.  I could fill volumes with the description of the riches and magnificence they display.

The church of St. John of Lateran possesses the wooden altar at which St. Peter is said to have read mass, the wooden table at which Jesus sat to eat the last supper, and the heads of the disciples Peter and Paul.  Near this church, in a building specially constructed for it, is the Scala Santa (holy staircase), which was brought from Jerusalem and deposited here.  This is a flight of twenty-eight steps of white marble, covered with boards, which no one is allowed to ascend or descend in the regular way, every man being required to shuffle up and down on his knees.  Near this holy stair a common one is built, which it is lawful to ascend in the regular way.

The basilica of St. Paul lies beyond the gate of the same name, in a very insalubrious neighbourhood.  It is only just rebuilt, after having been destroyed by fire.

The basilica Maria Maggiore, in which is deposited the “holy gate,” has the highest belfry in Rome, and above its portico we see a beautiful chamber where the new Pope stands to dispense the first blessing among the people.  In the chapel of the Crucifix five pieces of the wood of the Saviour’s manger are preserved in a silver urn.

St. Lorenzo, a mile from the town, is a very plain-looking edifice.  Here we find the Campo Santo, or cemetery.  The graves are covered with large blocks of stone.

St. Bessoriana is also called the church of the Holy Cross of Jerusalem, from the fact that a piece of the cross is preserved here, besides the letters I.N.R.I., some thorns, and a nail.

St. Sebastian in the suburbs, one of the most ancient Roman churches, is built over the great catacombs, in which 174,000 Christians were buried.  The catacombs are some stories deep, and extend over a large area.

All the above-named basilicas are so empty, and stand on such lonely spots, that I was almost afraid to visit them alone.

The handsome church of Sta.  Maria in Trastavare contrasts strangely with the quarter of the town in which it lies.  This part of Rome is inhabited by people calling themselves descendants of the ancient Trojans.