Many ruins of aqueducts and buildings of every kind shewed at every step what treasures of the past here awaited us.  I was particularly pleased with the old town-gate Lateran, by which we entered.

It was already quite dark when we reached the Dogana.  I at once betook myself to my room and retired to rest.

I remained a fortnight at Rome, and walked about the streets from morning till night.  I visited St. Peter’s almost every day, and went to the Vatican several times.

All the squares in Rome (and there are a great many) are decorated with fountains, and still more frequently with obelisks.  The finest is the Piazza del Popolo.  To the right rises the terrace-hill Picino, rich in pillars, statues, fountains, and other ornaments,—­a favourite walk of the citizens.  On this hill, which is arranged after the manner of a beautiful garden, we have a splendid view.  The city of Rome here appears to much greater advantage than when we approach it from the direction of Naples.  We can see the whole town at one glance, with the yellow Tiber flowing through the midst, and a vast plain all around.  The background is closed by beautiful mountain-ranges, with villas, little towns, and cottages on the declivities.  But I missed one feature, to which I had become so accustomed that the most beautiful view appeared incomplete without it—­the sea.  To make up for this drawback, we here encounter wherever we walk such a number of ruins, that we soon become forgetful of all around us, and live only in the past.

The Piazza del Popolo forms the termination of the three principal streets in Rome; on the largest and finest of these, the Corso, many palaces are to be seen.

The splendid post-office, of white marble, rises on the Colonna square.  Two clocks are erected on this building; one with our dial, one with the Italian.  At night both are illuminated,—­a very useful as well as an ornamental arrangement.  The ancient column of Antoninus also stands in this square.

The facade of the Dogana boasts some pillars from the temple of Antonius Pius.

The objects I have just enumerated struck me particularly as I wended my way to St. Peter’s.  I cannot describe how deeply I was impressed by the sight of this colossal structure.  I need only state the fact, that on the first day I entered the cathedral at nine in the morning, and did not emerge from its gates until three in the afternoon.

I sat down before the pictures in mosaic, underneath the huge dome and the canopy; then I stood before the statues and monuments, and could only gaze in wonder at every thing.

The expense of building and decorating this church is said to have amounted to 45,852,000 dollars.  It occupies the site of Nero’s circus.  Two arcades, with four rows of pillars and ninety-six statues, surround the square leading to the church.

The facade of St. Peter’s is decorated with Corinthian pillars, and on its parapet stand statues fifty-two feet in height.