an equally desolate wilderness is bounded only by the distant Red Sea.  Between these two huge and barren expanses Nubia writhes like a green sandworm along the course of the river.  Here and there it disappears altogether, and the Nile runs between black and sun-cracked hills, with the orange drift-sand lying like glaciers in their valleys.  Everywhere one sees traces of vanished races and submerged civilisations.  Grotesque graves dot the hills or stand up against the sky-line:  pyramidal graves, tumulus graves, rock graves—­everywhere, graves.  And, occasionally, as the boat rounds a rocky point, one sees a deserted city up above—­houses, walls, battlements, with the sun shining through the empty window squares.  Sometimes you learn that it has been Roman, sometimes Egyptian, sometimes all record of its name or origin has been absolutely lost.  You ask yourself in amazement why any race should build in so uncouth a solitude, and you find it difficult to accept the theory that this has only been of value as a guard-house to the richer country down below, and that these frequent cities have been so many fortresses to hold off the wild and predatory men of the south.  But whatever be their explanation, be it a fierce neighbour, or be it a climatic change, there they stand, these grim and silent cities, and up on the hills you can see the graves of their people, like the port-holes of a man-of-war.  It is through this weird, dead country that the tourists smoke and gossip and flirt as they pass up to the Egyptian frontier.

The passengers of the Korosko formed a merry party, for most of them had travelled up together from Cairo to Assouan, and even Anglo-Saxon ice thaws rapidly upon the Nile.  They were fortunate in being without the single disagreeable person who, in these small boats, is sufficient to mar the enjoyment of the whole party.  On a vessel which is little more than a large steam launch, the bore, the cynic, or the grumbler holds the company at his mercy.  But the Korosko was free from anything of the kind.  Colonel Cochrane Cochrane was one of those officers whom the British Government, acting upon a large system of averages, declares at a certain age to be incapable of further service, and who demonstrate the worth of such a system by spending their declining years in exploring Morocco, or shooting lions in Somaliland.  He was a dark, straight, aquiline man, with a courteously deferential manner, but a steady, questioning eye; very neat in his dress and precise in his habits, a gentleman to the tips of his trim finger-nails.  In his Anglo-Saxon dislike to effusiveness he had cultivated a self-contained manner which was apt at first acquaintance to be repellent, and he seemed to those who really knew him to be at some pains to conceal the kind heart and human emotions which influenced his actions.  It was respect rather than affection which he inspired among his fellow-travellers, for they felt, like all