AGAIN VISIT THE ISLAND.

August 20th.

It being considered probable that the natives might be induced to part with some of their pigs, a party was sent onshore, to endeavour to procure some by barter.  On landing, which was effected with much less difficulty than yesterday (for it was now high-water, enabling the boats to go over the reef although heavy rollers were coming in) we found that most of the men were absent, and the few remaining, although made to understand what we wanted, did not appear to like our paying a visit to their village, as if suspicious of our intentions towards the women, a circumstance which Europeans must always be on their guard against in dealing with savage tribes.  Our stay therefore was very short—­not exceeding five minutes—­and on the way back, besides picking up a few scraps for my vocabulary from a number of women and children in company, I procured a fine white Helix from the branch of a bread-fruit tree, and had a brief opportunity of examining the rock of the island.  This is of volcanic origin, and consists of a stratified earthy tufa and volcanic conglomerate, hollowed out below by the sea, succeeded by a harder vesicular rock above which one of the forms of lava has been poured out.

On our return to the beach we found that scarcely any bartering had gone on, and that the exhibition of a number of axes and knives, had been attended with the bad effect of exciting the cupidity of the natives.  Soon afterwards a canoe with people from the mainland arrived, and as anything but good feeling appeared to subsist, and we had failed in our object of getting the pigs, we left for the ship—­and this was our last communication with the shore during our stay at this anchorage.

LARGE CANOE.

August 22nd.

The most interesting occurrence of the day was the arrival from the main of a very large canoe, with twenty-six people on board.* When close to she shortened sail and attempted to paddle up, but being too unwieldy to stem the current, the end of a rope from the ship was carried out to her and she hauled up under our stern and made fast there.  Besides the ordinary paddles we observed at each end two others of large size—­probably used for steering with, pulled as oars, with cane grommets on the gunwale.  We had not before seen so fine a sample of Papuans; several were elderly men of fine figure and commanding appearance.  One man among them who sat alone upon a small raised stage over the platform appeared to exercise a considerable degree of authority over the rest; the only instance yet seen by us, either here or at the Louisiade, of anyone assuming the functions of a chief.  He called a small canoe alongside, and getting under the mizen chains attempted to climb up at once, and appeared surprised that the privilege of coming on board denied to the other natives was not immediately extended to him.  He was, however, accidentally allowed to come up the side and remain on deck for a short time.  He was a tall slender man, of about forty years of age, with sharp Jewish features—­his face and chest were painted black, and he wore a crest of cassowary feathers across his head.