customs of the European merchants at Surat, speaks of tea as of something unfamiliar.  The reasons he gives for drinking both it and coffee are charmingly incongruous, as is generally the case when men undertake to find some solemn excuse for doing what they like.  “At our ordinary meetings every day we took only The, which is commonly used all over the Indies, not only among those of the Country, but among the Dutch and English, who take it as a Drug that cleanses the stomach and digests the superfluous humours, by a temperate heat particular thereto.  The Persians, instead of The, drink their Kahwa, which cools and abates the natural heat which The preserves."[A] Of its first introduction into Europe little is known.  In 1517, King Emanuel of Portugal sent a fleet of eight ships to China, and an embassy to Peking; but it was not until after the formation of the Dutch East India Company, in 1602, that the use of tea became known on the Continent, and even then, although the Hollanders paid much attention to it, it made its way slowly for many years.  The first notice of it in England is found in Pepys’s “Diary,” under date of September 25th, 1660,—­as before quoted.  In 1664, the East India Company presented to the king, among other “raretyes,” 2 lb. 2 oz. of “thea”; and in 1667, they desire their agent at Bantam to send “100 lb. waight of the best tey that he can gett."[B] From this insignificant beginning the importation has grown from year to year, until ninety million pounds went to Great Britain in 1856, forty million coming to the United States the same year.

[Footnote A:  Mandelslo’s Voyages and Travels into the East Indies, p. 18, ed. 1662.]

[Footnote B:  Grant’s History of the East India Company.  London, 1813, p. 76.]

The “Edinburgh Review,” in an article on this subject, says:  “The progress of this famous plant has been somewhat like the progress of Truth;—­suspected at first, though very palatable to those who had the courage to taste it; resisted as it encroached; abused as its popularity seemed to spread; and establishing its triumph at last in cheering the whole land, from the palace to the cottage, only by the slow and resistless efforts of time and its own virtues.”

Many substitutes for tea are in vogue among the Chinese, but in general only the very lowest of the population are debarred the use of the genuine article.  Being the universal drink, it is found at all times in every house.  Few are so poor that a simmering tea-pot does not stand ever filled for the visitor.  It is invariably offered to strangers; and any omission to do so is considered, and is usually intended, as a slight.  It appears to be preferred by the people to any other beverage, even in the hottest weather; and while Americans in the heats of July would gladly resort to ice-water or lemonade, the Chinaman will quench his thirst with large draughts of boiling tea.