The edifice is in perfect preservation, and the hand
of power has not yet ventured to appropriate the plate
or ornaments; but this forbearance will most probably
give way to temptation and impunity. The Convention
will respect ancient prejudices no longer than they
suppose the people have courage to defend them, and
the latter seem so entirely subdued, that, however
they may murmur, I do not think any serious resistance
is to be expected from them, even in behalf of the
relics of St. Firmin. [St. Firmin, the patron of Amiens,
where he is, in many of the streets, represented with
his head in his hand.]—The bust of Henry
the Fourth, which was a present from the Monarch himself,
is banished the town-house, where it was formerly
placed, though, I hope, some royalist has taken possession
of it, and deposited it in safety till better times.
This once popular Prince is now associated with Nero
and Caligula, and it is “leze nation” to
speak of him to a thorough republican.—I
know not if the French had before the revolution reached
the acme of perfection, but they have certainly been
retrograding very fast since. Every thing that
used to create fondness and veneration is despised,
and things are esteemed only in proportion as they
are worthless. Perhaps the bust of Robespierre
may one day replace that of Henry the Fourth, and,
to speak in the style of an eastern epistle, “what
can I say more?”
Should you ever travel this way with Gray in your
hand, you will look for the Ursuline convent, and
regret the paintings he mentions: but you may
recollect, for your consolation, that they are merely
pretty, and remarkable only for being the work of
one of the nuns.—Gray, who seems to have
had that enthusiastic respect for religious orders
common to young minds, admired them on this account;
and numbers of English travellers have, I dare say,
prepossessed by such an authority, experienced the
same disappointment I myself felt on visiting the
Ursuline church. Many of the chapels belonging
to these communities were very showy and much decorated
with gilding and sculpture: some of them are
sold for a mere trifle, but the greatest part are filled
with corn and forage, and on the door is inscribed
“Magazin des armees.” The change
is almost incredible to those who remember, that less
than four years ago the Catholic religion was strictly
practised, and the violation of these sanctuaries
deemed sacrilegious. Our great historian [Gibbon]
might well say “the influence of superstition
is fluctuating and precarious;” though, in the
present instance, it has rather been restrained than
subdued; and the people, who have not been convinced,
but intimidated, secretly lament these innovations,
and perhaps reproach themselves conscientiously with
their submission.—Yours.
June 20, 1793.