The inhabitants of Arras, with all their patriotism, are extremely averse from the assignats; and it is with great reluctance that they consent to receive them at two-thirds of their nominal value.  This discredit of the paper money has been now two months at a stand, and its rise or fall will be determined by the success of the campaign.—­I bid you adieu for the last time from hence.  We have already exceeded the proposed length of our visit, and shall set out for St. Omer to-morrow.—­Yours.

St. Omer, September, 1792.

I am confined to my room by a slight indisposition, and, instead of accompanying my friends, have taken up my pen to inform you that we are thus far safe on our journey.—­Do not, because you are surrounded by a protecting element, smile at the idea of travelling forty or fifty miles in safety.  The light troops of the Austrian army penetrate so far, that none of the roads on the frontier are entirely free from danger.  My female companions were alarmed the whole day—­the young for their baggage, and the old for themselves.

The country between this and Arras has the appearance of a garden cultivated for the common use of its inhabitants, and has all the fertility and beauty of which a flat surface is susceptible.  Bethune and Aire I should suppose strongly fortified.  I did not fail, in passing through the former, to recollect with veneration the faithful minister of Henry the Fourth.  The misfortunes of the descendant of Henry, whom Sully* loved, and the state of the kingdom he so much cherished, made a stronger impression on me than usual, and I mingled with the tribute of respect a sentiment of indignation.

     * Maximilien de Bethune, Duc de Sully.

What perverse and malignant influence can have excited the people either to incur or to suffer their present situation?  Were we not well acquainted with the arts of factions, the activity of bad men, and the effect of their union, I should be almost tempted to believe this change in the French supernatural.  Less than three years ago, the name of Henri Quatre was not uttered without enthusiasm.  The piece that transmitted the slightest anecdotes of his life was certain of success—­the air that celebrated him was listened to with delight—­and the decorations of beauty, when associated with the idea of this gallant Monarch, became more irresistible.*

     * At this time it was the prevailing fashion to call any new
     inventions of female dress after his name, and to decorate the
     ornamental parts of furniture with his resemblance.

Yet Henry the Fourth is now a tyrant—­his pictures and statues are destroyed, and his memory is execrated!—­Those who have reduced the French to this are, doubtless, base and designing intriguers; yet I cannot acquit the people, who are thus wrought on, of unfeelingness and levity.—­England has had its revolutions; but the names of Henry the Fifth and Elizabeth were still revered:  and the regal monuments, which still exist, after all the vicissitudes of our political principles, attest the mildness of the English republicans.