hunger had come upon him to climb the tremendous Weisshorn once more, for he had heard of a new and utterly impossible route up it.  His baggage was unpacked at once, and now he and a friend, laden with knapsacks, ice-axes, coils of rope, and canteens of milk, were just setting out.  They would spend the night high up among the snows, somewhere, and get up at two in the morning and finish the enterprise.  I had a strong desire to go with them, but forced it down —­a feat which Mr. Girdlestone, with all his fortitude, could not do.

Even ladies catch the climbing mania, and are unable to throw it off.  A famous climber, of that sex, had attempted the Weisshorn a few days before our arrival, and she and her guides had lost their way in a snow-storm high up among the peaks and glaciers and been forced to wander around a good while before they could find a way down.  When this lady reached the bottom, she had been on her feet twenty-three hours!

Our guides, hired on the Gemmi, were already at Zermatt when we reached there.  So there was nothing to interfere with our getting up an adventure whenever we should choose the time and the object.  I resolved to devote my first evening in Zermatt to studying up the subject of Alpine climbing, by way of preparation.

I read several books, and here are some of the things I found out.  One’s shoes must be strong and heavy, and have pointed hobnails in them.  The alpenstock must be of the best wood, for if it should break, loss of life might be the result.  One should carry an ax, to cut steps in the ice with, on the great heights.  There must be a ladder, for there are steep bits of rock which can be surmounted with this instrument—­or this utensil—­but could not be surmounted without it; such an obstruction has compelled the tourist to waste hours hunting another route, when a ladder would have saved him all trouble.  One must have from one hundred and fifty to five hundred feet of strong rope, to be used in lowering the party down steep declivities which are too steep and smooth to be traversed in any other way.  One must have a steel hook, on another rope—­a very useful thing; for when one is ascending and comes to a low bluff which is yet too high for the ladder, he swings this rope aloft like a lasso, the hook catches at the top of the bluff, and then the tourist climbs the rope, hand over hand—­being always particular to try and forget that if the hook gives way he will never stop falling till he arrives in some part of Switzerland where they are not expecting him.  Another important thing—­there must be a rope to tie the whole party together with, so that if one falls from a mountain or down a bottomless chasm in a glacier, the others may brace back on the rope and save him.  One must have a silk veil, to protect his face from snow, sleet, hail and gale, and colored goggles to protect his eyes from that dangerous enemy, snow-blindness.  Finally, there must be some porters, to carry provisions, wine and scientific instruments, and also blanket bags for the party to sleep in.