After sunset, or under awnings, any sort of cap may be worn.

21.  Shirts and collars are obviously matters of taste.  A good supply of white shirts and collars must be taken to cope with the destruction and loss which may be expected at the hands of the dobie.  Flannel shirts can be made easily enough from English models in Srinagar.

22.  Under-garments should be of Indian gauze for hot weather, with a supply of thicker articles for camping in the hills.

Cholera belts should on no account be omitted.

23.  Socks, according to taste—­very few knickerbocker stockings need be taken, as putties are cheap and usual in Srinagar.

24.  Ties—­the white ones of the cheap sort that can be thrown away after use, with a light heart.  Handkerchiefs, and a few pairs of white gloves.

25.  Sleeping-suits, both thick for camp work and light for hot weather, should be taken.

  26.  Dress suit and dinner-jacket.

27.  Knickerbocker or knee-breeches, which can be copied in Kashmir by the native tailor.

Riding-breeches are not in the least necessary unless the traveller contemplates any special riding expedition.  Ordinary shooting continuations do quite well for all the mounted work the tourist is likely to do.  A pair of stohwasser gaiters may be taken, but even they are not necessary, neither is a saddle.

A lady, however, should take out a short riding-skirt, or habit, and a side-saddle.

28.  A tweed suit of medium warmth for travelling, and a couple of flannel suits, will bring the wearer to Srinagar, where he can increase his stock at a ridiculously low price—­about 22 rupees or L1, 9s. 4d. per suit.

29.  Boots.  Here, again, the wayfarer is at full liberty to please himself.  A pair of strong shooting-boots, with plenty of spare laces and, say, a hundred aluminium nails, is a sine qua non.  A pair of rubbers, or what are known as “gouties” in Swiss winter circles, are not to be despised.  Otherwise, boots, shoes, slippers, and pumps, according to taste.

30.  A large “regulation” waterproof, a rain-coat or Burberry, and a warm greatcoat will all be required.

It is hard to give definite advice to a lady as to the details of her outfit.  Let her conform in a general way to the instructions given above, always remembering that both Srinagar and Gulmarg are gay and festive places, where she will dine and dance, and have ample opportunity for displaying a well-chosen wardrobe.

Let her also take heed that she leaves the family diamonds at home.  The gentle Kashmiri is an inveterate and skilful thief, and the less jewellery she can make up her mind to “do with,” the more at ease will her mind be.  But if she must needs copy the lady of whom we read, that

  “Rich and rare were the gems she wore,”

then why not line the jewel-case—­or rather the secret bag, which she will sew into some mysterious garment—­with the diamonds of Gophir and the pearls of Rome?