(3) A liver in such thorough working order as to insure an extraordinary supply of good temper.

Without all these attributes the acquisition of objects of “bigotry and vertue” in Srinagar is attended with pain and tribulation.

The descent of the river is accomplished with ease and rapidity, but revocare gradum involves much hard paddling, with many pants and grunts; and it was both cold and dark when we again lay alongside the bank of the Chenar Bagh, and scurried up the slippery bund to the hotel, with scarcely time to dress for dinner.

Sunday, 9th April.—­Friday was a horrible day—­rainy, dull, and cold; but a thrill of excitement was sent through us by the news that Walter has shot two fine bara singh!  Charlotte (who is nothing if not a keen sportswoman) was filled with zeal and the spirit of emulation, so we resolved to dash off down the river to Bandipur, join Walter—­who has now presumably joined the ranks of the unemployed, being only permitted by the Game Laws to kill two stags—­and take our pick of the remaining “Royals,” which, in our vivid imaginations, roamed in dense flocks through the nullahs beyond Bandipur!

All Friday and yesterday, therefore, were devoted to preparation.  I had already, through the kindness of Major Wigram, secured a shikari, who immediately demonstrated his zeal and efficiency by purchasing a couple of bloodthirsty knives and a huge bottle of Rangoon oil at my expense.  I pointed out that one “skian-dhu” seemed to me sufficient for “gralloching” purposes, but he said two were better for bears.  My acquaintance with bears being hitherto confined to Regent’s Park, I bowed to his superior knowledge and forethought.

A visit to Cockburn’s agency resulted in the hire of the “boarded dounga” Cruiser, which the helpful Mr. Cockburn procured for us, in which to go down the river; also a couple of tents for ourselves with tent furniture, one for the servants, and a cooking tent.

The local bootmaker or “chaplie-wallah” appeared, as by magic, on the scene, and chaplies were ordered.  These consist of a sort of leather sandal strapped over soft leather boots or moccasins.  They are extremely comfortable for walking on ordinary ground, but perfectly useless for hill work, even when the soles are studded with nails.  The hideous but necessary grass shoe is then your only wear.  The grass shoe, which is made as required by the native, is an intricate contrivance of rice straw, kept in position by a straw twist which is hauled taut between the big and next toe, and the end expended round some of the side webbing.  The cleft sock and woollen boot worn underneath keep the feet warm, but do not always prevent discomfort and even much pain if the cords are not properly adjusted.  However, the remedy is simple.  Tear off the shoe, using such language as may seem appropriate to the occasion, throw it at the shikari’s head, and order another