INTRODUCTION

A journey to Kashmir now—­in these days of cheap and rapid locomotion—­is in nowise serious.  It takes time, I grant you, but to any one with a few months to spare—­and there are many in that happy position—­there can be few pleasanter ways of spending a summer holiday.

It would be as well to start from England not later than the middle of March, as the Red Sea and the Sind Desert begin to warm up uncomfortably in spring.  Srinagar would then be reached fairly early in April, and the visitor should arrange, if possible, to remain in the country until the middle of October.  We had to leave just as the gorgeous autumn colouring was beginning to blaze in the woods, and the first duck were wheeling over the Wular Lake.

The climate of Kashmir is fairly similar to that of many parts of Southern Europe.  There is a good deal of snow in the valley in winter.  Spring is charming, the brilliant days only varied by frequent thunderstorms—­which, however, are almost invariable in keeping their pyrotechnics till about five in the afternoon.  July and August are hot and steamy in the valley, and it is necessary to seek one of the cool “Margs” which form ideal camping-grounds on all the lofty mountain slopes which surround the valley.

Gulmarg is the most frequented and amusing resort in summer of the English colony and contingent from the broiling plains of the Punjab.  Here the happy fugitive from the sweltering heat of the lower regions will find a climate as glorious as the scenery.  He can enjoy the best of polo and golf, and, if he be not a misogynist, he will vary the ‘daily round’ with picnics and scrambles on foot or on horseback, in exploring the endless beauty of the place, coming home to his hut or tent as the sun sinks behind the great pines that screen the Rampur Road, to wind up the happy day with a cheery dinner and game of bridge.  But if Gulmarg does not appeal to him, let him go with his camping outfit to Sonamarg or Pahlgam—­he will find neither polo nor golf nor the gay little society of Gulmarg, but he will find equally charming scenery and, perhaps, a drier climate—­for it must in fairness be admitted that Gulmarg is a rainy place.  Likewise his pocket will benefit, as his expenses will surely be less, and he will still find neighbours dotted about in white tents under the pine trees.

Towards the middle of September the exodus from the high ‘Margs’ takes place—­many returning sadly to Pindi and Sealkote—­others merely to Srinagar, while those who yearn after Bara Singh and Bear, decamp quietly for their selected nullahs, to be in readiness for the opening of the autumn season.

Thus, from April to October, a more or less perfect climate may be obtained by watching the mercury in the thermometer, and rising or descending the mountain slopes in direct ratio with it.