At Waltham is one of the many crosses erected by Edward I. in memory of his first wife, Eleanor of Castile, wherever her body rested on its way to Westminster from Lincoln.  At Northampton is another of these famous crosses.  When the king asked the Abbot of Cluny to intercede for her soul, he said, “We loved her tenderly in her lifetime; we do not cease to love her in death.”

A little way to the left of Waltham Cross, now a gateway to the park of Theobalds, stands Temple Bar, stone for stone intact as it was in the days when traitors’ heads were raised above it in Fleet Street, although the original wooden gates have gone.  A portion of the richly-carved top of the gate is still in existence in London.  Waltham Abbey is probably close to that part of the river Lea where King Alfred defeated the Danes.  They had penetrated far up the river when King Alfred diverted the waters of the river from underneath their black vessels and left them high and dry in a wilderness of marsh and forest.  The gentle Charles Lamb was very fond of the country all round Waltham Abbey, especially Broxbourne and Amwell.

[Illustration:  The abbey gate at Waltham.

Waltham Abbey was founded in 1060 by Harold II.]

DOWNE

THE HOME OF DARWIN

=How to get there.=—­Train from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or
  London Bridge.  South-Eastern and Chatham Railway.
=Nearest Station.=—­Orpington (3-1/2 to 4 miles from Downe). =Distance from London.=—­13-3/4 miles. =Average Time.=—­35 minutes.

                    1st 2nd 3rd
=Fares.=—­Single 2s. 4d. 1s. 6d. 1s. 2-1/2d. 
          Return 4s. 0d. 3s. 0d. ...

=Accommodation Obtainable.=—­“Queen’s Head,” at Downe, facing the
  church.  Hotels at Farnborough—­“White Lion,” “George and
  Dragon.”

The home of the great scientist is still standing in the little village of Downe in Kent.  The road to the hamlet is through Farnborough, and the walk takes an hour.  Downe is a pleasant place, possessing a large village pond and a small church with a shingled spire.  Darwin’s home, known as Downe House, was built in the eighteenth century.  Its front is of white stucco, relieved by ivy and other creepers.  The wing on the west side of the house was added by Darwin shortly after he came to live there.  This new portion of the house was used partly to accommodate his library.  On the north side is the room used by Darwin as a study, in which he wrote some of his most important works.  The garden of the house is sheltered and reposeful, and from the old wall-garden to the south there is a beautiful view over the delightful stretch of country in the direction of Westerham.