construction being in charge of Mr. Alfred Cruger, an American engineer.  Ten years later there were nearly three hundred miles of line.  At the beginning of the American occupation, in 1899, there were about nine-hundred and fifty miles.  There are now more than 2,000 miles of public service line in operation, and in addition there are many hundreds of miles of private lines on the sugar estates.  Several cities have trolley lines.  For some years after the American occupation, as before that experience, there was only a water-and-rail connection, or an all-water route, between the eastern and western sections of the island.  The usual route from Havana to Santiago was by rail to Batabano or to Cienfuegos, and thence by steamer.  The alternative was an all-water route, consuming several days, by steamer along the north coast, with halts at different ports, and around the eastern end of the island to the destination.  It is now an all-rail run of twenty-four hours.  The project for a “spinal railway” from one end of the island to the other had been under consideration for many years.  The configuration lent itself excellently to such a system, and not at all well to any other.  A railway map of such a system shows a line, generally, through the middle of the island along its length, with numerous branch lines running north and south to the various cities and ports on the coast.  The plan, broadly, is being carried out.  A combination of existing lines afforded a route to the city of Santa Clara.  From these eastward, the Cuba Company, commonly known as the Van Home road, completed a through line in 1902.  In its beginning, it was a highly ambitious scheme, involving the building of many towns along the way, the erection of many sugar mills, and the creation of a commercial city, at Nipe Bay, that would leave Havana in the back-number class.  All that called for a sum of money not then and not now available.  But the “spinal railroad” was built, and from it a number of radiating lines have been built, to Sancti Spiritus, Manzanillo, Nipe Bay, and to Guantanamo.  About the only places on the island, really worth seeing, with the exception of Trinidad and Baracoa, can now be reached by a fairly comfortable railway journey.

[Illustration:  THE VOLANTE Now quite rare]

In most of the larger cities of the island, a half dozen or so of them, the traveller is made fairly comfortable and is almost invariably well fed.  But any question of physical comfort in hotels, more particularly in country hotels, raises a question of standards.  As Touchstone remarked, when in the forest of Arden, “Travellers must be content.”  Those who are not ready to make themselves so, no matter what the surroundings, should stay at home, which, Touchstone also remarked, “is a better place.”  If the standard is the ostentatious structure of the larger cities of this country, with its elaborate menu and its systematized service, there will doubtless be cause for complaint.  So will