in the procession, and the central promenade was thronged with those who walked, either because they preferred to or because they could not afford to ride around and around.  In the Parque Central were other walkers, chatting groups, and lookers-on.  Some days the band played.  Then the Prado was extended to the water-front; the glorieta was erected; and that became another centre for chatterers and watchers.  The building of the Malecon extended the range of the driveway.  This afternoon function is an old established institution and a good one.  It may not compare favorably with the drive in some of our parks in this country, but it is the best substitute possible in Havana.  Indulgence in ices, cooling drinks, chocolate, or other refections, during this daily ceremony, is fairly common but by no means a general practice.  The afternoon tea habit has not yet seized upon Havana.  The ices are almost invariably excellent.  Some of them are prepared from native fruit flavors that are quite unknown here.  The guanabana ice is particularly to be recommended.  All such matters are quite individual, but a decoction called chocolate Espanol is also to be recommended.  It is served hot, too thick to drink, and is to be taken with a spoon, to the accompaniment of cake.  It is highly nourishing as well as palatable.  There is a wide variety of “soft drinks,” made with oranges, limes, or other fruits, and the orchata, made from almonds, and the products of American soda fountains, but there is little use of the high-ball or the cocktail except by Americans.

[Illustration:  STREET AND CHURCH OF THE ANGELS Havana]

The Cubans are an exceedingly temperate people.  Wine is used by all classes, and aguadiente, the native rum, is consumed in considerable quantity, but the Cuban rarely drinks to excess.  I recall an experience during the earlier years.  I was asked to write a series of articles on the use of intoxicants in the island, for a temperance publication in this country.  My first article so offended the publishers that they declined to print it, and cancelled the order for the rest of the series.  It was perhaps somewhat improper, but in that article I summed up the situation by stating that “the temperance question in Cuba is only a question of how soon we succeed in converting them into a nation of drunkards.”  Beer is used, both imported and of local manufacture.  Gin, brandy, and anisette, cordials and liqueurs are all used to some but moderate extent, but intoxication is quite rare.  One fluid extract I particularly recommend, that is the milk of the cocoanut, the green nut.  Much, however, depends upon the cocoanut.  Properly ripened, the “milk” is delicious, cooling and wholesome, more so perhaps on a country journey than in the city.  The nut not fully ripened gives the milk, or what is locally called the “water,” an unpleasant, woody taste.  I have experimented with it in different parts of the world, in the Philippines, Ceylon, and elsewhere, and have found it wholesome and refreshing in all places.