Lovaina had given me a note to the chief of Papara, Tati, whose father was Salmon, an English Jew, and whose sister was Marao, the relict of the late king, and known as the queen.  His father was the first white to marry formally a Tahitian noblewoman.  Pomare IV had generously granted permission for the high chiefess of Papara to ally herself with the shrewd descendant of the House of David, and their progeny had included the queen, Tati, and others celebrated in Tahitian life.

Tati welcomed me with the heartiness of the English gentleman and the courtesy of the Tahitian chief.  He was a man of large parts himself, limited in his hospitality only by his means, he, like all natives, having thrown away most of his patrimony in his youth.  He was the best-known Tahitian next to Prince Hinoe, but much abler than he.  He knew the Tahitian history and legends, the interwoven tribal relations, the descents and alliances of the families, better than any one else.  Such knowledge was highly esteemed by the natives, for whom chiefly rank still bore significance.  The Tatis had been chiefs of Papara for generations, and had entertained Captain Cook.

He lived in a bungalow near the beach, handsome, spreading, and with a mixed European and indigenous arrangement and furnishing that was very attractive.  I met his sons and daughters, and had luncheon with them.  Tati, of course, spoke English fluently, yet with the soft intonation of the Tahitian.  Some of the dishes and knives and forks had belonged to Robert Louis Stevenson, who, said Tati, had given them to him when he was departing from Tahiti.  Tati’s sister, a widow, was of the party, and together we went to the Protestant churchyard to her husband’s tomb.  It was imposing and costly, and the inscription read: 

In Memory of Dorence Atwater, beloved husband of arii inoore Moetia Salmon.  Born at Terryville, Conn., Feb. 3, 1845.  Died at San Francisco, Cal., November 28, 1910.  As a last tribute to his name there was erected in his native state a monument with this inscription: 

This memorial is dedicated to our fellow townsman, Dorence Atwater, for his patriotism in preserving to this nation the names of 13,000 soldiers who died while prisoners at Andersonville, Ga.

He builded better than he knew; some day, perchance, in surprise he may wake to learn: 

He builded a monument more enduring than brass.

Tupuataroa.

The name given Atwater when he married Moetia Salmon was Tupuataroa, which means a wise man.  Mrs. Atwater was rich and melancholy.  She mourned her dead.  Atwater had come to Tahiti as American consul, and had piled franc on franc in trade and speculation, with great dignity and success.  He had been the leading American of his generation in the South Seas, and had left no children.

Tati said that when the church was dedicated—­it was a box-like structure of wood and coral, whitewashed and red-roofed—­three thousand Tahitians had feasted in a thatched house erected for the arearea.  The himene-chorus was made up of singers from every district in Tahiti and Moorea.  Tati had presided.