old lady, but where flies occupied one half the house, and the filthiest negro-boys the other.  Several respectable people, out of regard to the old lady, were performing the penance of residing in her house:  a trip on hot ashes from Dan to Beersheba would have been luxury by comparison.  I resigned myself and got reconciled, as I saw the sincere desire of the dear old girl to make me as comfortable as she could; and by learning to eat my meals with my eyes shut, I got on tolerably well.  But scarce had I set foot in this establishment which I have been describing, ere kind friends sprang up to greet me and offer me the use of their club-room, which was just opposite my boarding-house; and as this was only the prelude to endless other civilities, my lodging saw very little of me; which may be easily imagined, when it is recollected how famous Charleston is, not only for the good living which it affords, but for the liberal hospitality with which it is dispensed.  A letter to one gentleman becomes, like magic, an “Open Sesame” to all the cellars and society in the place; and the only point in dispute is, who can show you most kindness.

The town is conveniently situated between the Ashley and Cooper rivers, with a population of 25,000 whites and the same number of blacks; it is a mixture of all that is lovely and annoying.  The houses have mostly little gardens attached to them, sparkling with tropical flowers, and the streets are shaded with avenues of trees.  This is all very lovely to look upon; but when you go out to enjoy a stroll, if the air is still, a beefsteak would frizzle on the crown of your hat; and if there is the slightest breeze, the sandy dust, like an Egyptian khamseen, laughs at all precautions, blinding your eyes, stuffing your nose, filling your mouth, and bringing your hide to a state which I can find no other comparison for but that of a box intended to represent a stone pedestal, and which, when the paint has half dried, is sprinkled with sand to perfect the delusion.  Thus you can understand the lovely and the annoying of which I have spoken.  When the inhabitants wish to take a drive, there is a plank road about six miles long, which enables them to enjoy this luxury.  If they are not content with this road, they must seek their pleasure with the carriages up to their axles in sand.  There are three old royalist buildings still standing—­viz., the Episcopal church, the Court-house, and the Exchange.  The first reminds one warmly of the dear old parish church in England, with its heavy oak pulpit and the square family pews, and it sobers the mind as it leads the memory to those days when, if the church was not full of activity, it was not full of strife—­when parishioners were not brought to loggerheads as to the colour of the preacher’s gown—­when there was no triangular duel (vide Marryat) as to candles, no candles, and lit candles—­when, in short, if there was but moderate zeal about the substance, there was no quarrelling about the shadows