Modern India eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 495 pages of information about Modern India.

Modern India eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 495 pages of information about Modern India.
must be kept in the running.  A growler will tell you that he never gets a lower berth, that he is always crowded into a compartment that is already three-fourths occupied with passengers who are trying to sleep, but he forgets that they have more than he to complain of, and if he is a malicious man he can find deep consolation in the thought and make as great a nuisance of himself as possible.  I do not know how the gentler sex behave under such circumstances, but I have heard stories that I am too polite to repeat.

There is no means of ventilation in the ceiling, but there is a frieze of blinds under it, along both sides of the car, with slats that can be turned to let the air in directly upon the body of the occupant of the upper berth, who is at liberty to elect whether he dies of pneumonia or suffocation.  The gentleman in the lower berth has a row of windows along his back, which never fit closely but rattle like a snare drum, and have wide gaps that admit a forced draught of air if the night is damp or chilly.  If it is hot the windows swell and stick so that you cannot open them, and during the daytime they rattle so loud that conversation is impossible unless the passengers have throats of brass like the statues of Siva.  In India, during the winter season, there is a wide variation in the temperature, sometimes as much as thirty or forty degrees.  At night you will need a couple of thick blankets; at noonday it is necessary to wear a pith helmet or carry an umbrella to protect the head from the sun, and as people do their traveling in the dry season chiefly, the dust is dreadful.  Everything in the car wears a soft gray coating before the train has been in motion half an hour.

The bunks are too narrow for beds and too wide for seats.  The act of rolling over in the night is attended with some danger and more anxiety, especially by the occupants of the upper berths.  In the daytime you can sit on the edge like an embarrassed boy, with nothing to support your spine, or you can curl up like a Buddha on his lotus flower, with your legs under you; but that is not dignified, nor is it a comfortable posture for a fat man.  Slender girls can do it all right; but it is impracticable for ladies who have passed the thirty-third degree, or have acquired embonpoint with their other graces.  Or you can shove back against the windows and let your feet stick out straight toward the infinite.  It isn’t the fault of a railway corporation or the master mechanic of a car factory if they don’t reach the floor.  It is a defect for which nature is responsible.  President Lincoln once said every man’s legs ought to be long enough to reach the ground.

The cars are divided into two, three, or four compartments for first-class passengers, with a narrow little pen for their servants at the end which is absolutely necessary, because nobody in India travels without an attendant to wait upon him.  His comfort as well as his social position requires it, and few have the moral courage to disregard the rule.  To make it a little clearer I will give you a diagram sketched by your special artist on the spot.

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Project Gutenberg
Modern India from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.