On the next morning (20th) we embarked in good deep water at eight o’clock.  We reached rapids at eleven o’clock.  Passed a portage of two pauses, and took dinner at the terminus.  Sandstone forms the bed of the river at the rapids here.  It inclined E.S.E. about 75 deg..  A continual rapid, called the Galley, being over a brown sandstone rock, succeeds, in which rapids follow rapids at short intervals.  We encamped at the Raft rapids.  The men toiled like dogs, but willingly and without grumbling.  Next day (21st) we were early on the water, and passed the crossing of the Indian portage path from St. Charles Bay, at La Pointe, to the Falls of St. Anthony.  We followed a wide bend of the river, around the four pause portage.  This was a continued rapid.  The men toiled incessantly, being constantly in the water.  The bark of the canoes became so saturated with water that they were limber, and bent under the weight of carrying them on the portages.  We encamped, very much tired, but the men soon rallied, and never complained.  It was admirable to see such fidelity and buoyancy of character.

We were now daily toiling up the ascent of the summit which separates the basin of Lake Superior from the valley of the upper Mississippi.  The exertion was incredible.  I expected every day some of the men to give out, but their pride to conquer hardships was, with them, the point of honor.  They gloried in feats under which ordinary men would have fainted.  To carry a horse load over a portage path which a horse could not walk, is an exploit which none but a Canadian voyageur would sigh for the accomplishment of.

On the 22d, we came to a short portage, after going about six miles, during a violent rain storm.  Then three portages of short extent, say fifty to three hundred yards each, in quick succession.  After the last, some comparatively slight rapids.  Finally, smooth water and a sylvan country, level and grassy.  We were evidently near the summit.  Soon came to the forks, and took the left hand.  Came afterwards to three branches, and took the south.  Followed a distance through alder bushes bending from each side; this required skill in dodging, for the bushes were covered with caterpillars.  We formed an encampment on this narrow stream by cutting away bushes, and beating down high grass and nettles.  Here was good soil capable of profitable agriculture.

GREAT WUNNEGUM PORTAGE.—­The next morning we resumed the ascent of this branch at six o’clock, and reached the beginning of the Gitchy Wun-ne-gum portage at nine o’clock A.M.  This was the last great struggle in the ascent.  We spent about three hours in drying baggage, corn, tents, beds, &c.  Then went on four pauses over the portage and encamped in sight of a pond.  The next day we accomplished ten pauses, a hard day’s work.  We encamped near a boulder of granite of the drift stratum, which contained brilliant plates of mica.  Water scarce and bad.  Our tea was made of a brown pondy liquid, which looked like water in a tanner’s vat.