In the evening, we reached Anapka, which place was taken by the Turks in 1829.  Here the finely wooded mountains and hills, and the somewhat desolate steppes {320b} of the Crimea commence.

In the course of the day I had an opportunity of observing the watchfulness and penetration of our commandant.  A sailing-vessel was quietly at anchor in a small creek.  The commandant, perceiving it, immediately ordered the steamer to stop, ordered out a boat, and sent an officer to see what it was doing there.  So far everything had gone correctly; for in Russia, where the limits of every foreign fly is known, what a whole ship is about, must also be seen to.  But now comes the comical part of the affair.  The officer went near the ship, but did not board it, and did not ask for the ship’s papers, but merely called out to the captain to know what he was about there?  The captain answered that contrary winds had compelled him to anchor there, and that he waited for a favourable one to sail to this place and that.  This answer satisfied the officer and the commandant completely.  To me it seemed just as if any one was asked whether he was an honourable man or a rogue, and then trusted to his honour when he gave himself a good character.

23rd September.  Another bad night; nothing but wind and rain.  How I pitied the poor, sick fellows, and even those who were well, exposed to this weather on the deck.

Towards noon we arrived at Kertsch; the town can be seen very well from the sea, as it stretches out in a semi-circle on the shore, and rises a little up the hill Mithridates {321}, which lies behind.  Higher up the hill is the museum, in the style of a Grecian temple—­ circular, and surrounded with columns.  The summit of the mountain ends in a fine group of rocks, between which stand some obelisks and monuments, which belong to the old burial-place.  The country round is a steppe, covered with artificial earth-mounds, which make the graves of a very remote period.  Besides the Mithridates, there is no hill or mountain to be seen.

Kertsch lies partly on the spot where Pantikapaum formerly stood.  It is now included in the government of Tauria; it is fortified, has a safe harbour, and rather considerable commerce.  The population amounts to 12,000.  The town contains many fine houses, which are chiefly of modern date; the streets are broad, and furnished with raised pavements for foot passengers.  There is much gaiety in the two squares on Sundays and festivals.  A market of every possible thing, but especially provisions, is held there.  The extraordinary vulgarity and rudeness of the common people struck me greatly; on all sides I heard only abuse, shouting, and cursing.  To my astonishment I saw dromedaries yoked to many loaded carts.