An indigo plantation in the neighbourhood, the first I ever saw, was not less interesting to me than these towers and their singular tradition.  The indigo plant is herbaceous, and from one to three feet high, with delicate bluish-green leaves.  The harvest is generally in August; the plants are cut tolerably low on the principal stem, tied together in bundles, and thrown into large wooden vats.  Planks are laid on the tops of the bundles weighted with stones, and water poured on them; generally after sixteen hours, though sometimes after several days, according to the character of the water, fermentation commences.  This is the principal difficulty, and everything depends upon its continuance for the proper time.  When the water has acquired a dark-green colour, it is transferred to other wooden vessels, lime added, and the whole stirred with wooden spades until a blue deposit takes place.  After being allowed to settle, the water is poured off, and the substance remaining behind is put into long linen bags through which the moisture filters.  As soon as the indigo is dry, it is broken in pieces and packed.

Shortly before my departure I had the pleasure of being presented to the Rajah through the aid of my fellow-traveller, Mr. Law.  He resides in the Citadel Rhamnughur, which lies on the left bank of the Ganges, above the town.

A handsomely ornamented boat awaited us at the bank of the river, and on the other side a palanquin.  We soon found ourselves at the entrance of the palace, the gateway of which is lofty and majestic.  I expected to have been gratified in the interior by the sight of spacious courts and a handsome style of architecture, but found only irregular courts and small unsymmetrical apartments, destitute of all taste and luxury.  In one of the courts was a plain-columned hall on the level of the ground, which served as a reception-room.  This hall was overcrowded with glass lustres, lamps, and European furniture; on the walls were some miserable pictures, framed and glazed.  Outside was a swarm of servants, who gazed at us with great attention.  Presently the prince made his appearance, accompanied by his brother, and some courtiers and attendants, who could scarcely be distinguished the one from the other.

The two princes were very richly dressed; they wore wide trousers, long under and short over garments, all made of satin, embroidered with gold.  The elder one, aged thirty-five, wore short silk cuffs, embroidered with gold, the edge set with diamonds; he had several large brilliant rings on his finger, and his silk shoes were covered with beautiful gold embroidery.  His brother, a youth of nineteen, whom he had adopted, {170} wore a white turban with a costly clasp of diamonds and pearls.  He had large pearls hanging from his ears, and rich massive bracelets on his wrists.  The elder prince was a handsome man, with exceedingly amiable and intellectual features; the younger one pleased me far less.