I have spoken of the practice of Switzerland in regard to passports, an example which it does not suit the purpose the French politicians to follow.  Here, and all over the continent, the passport system is as strictly and vexatiously enforced as ever.  It is remarkable that none of the reformers occupied in the late remodelling of European institutions, seems to have thought of abolishing this invention of despotism—­this restraint upon the liberty of passing from place to place, which makes Europe one great prison.  If the people had been accustomed to perfect freedom in this respect, though but a short time, it might have been found difficult, at least in France, to reimpose the old restraints.  The truth is, however, that France is not quite so free at present as she was under Louis Philippe.  The only advantage of her present condition is, that the constitution places in the hands of the people the means of peaceably perfecting their liberties, whenever they are enlightened enough to claim them.

On my way from Geneva to Lyons I sat in banquette of the diligence among the plebeians.  The conversation happened to turn on politics, and the expressions of hatred against the present government of France, which broke from the conductor, the coachman, and the two passengers by my side, were probably significant of the feeling which prevails among the people.  “The only law now,” said one, “is the law of the sabre.”  “The soldiers and the gens d’armes have every thing their own way now,” said another, “but by and by they will be glad to, hide in the sewers.”  The others were no less emphatic in their expressions of anger and detestation.

The expedition to Rome is unpopular throughout France, more especially so in the southern part of the republic, where the intercourse with Rome has been more frequent, and the sympathy with her people is stronger.  “I have never,” said an American friend, who has resided some time in Paris, “heard a single Frenchman defend it.”  It is unpopular, even among the troops sent on the expedition, as is acknowledged by the government journals themselves.  To propitiate public opinion, the government has changed its course, and after making war upon the Romans to establish the pontifical throne, now tells the Pope that he must submit to place the government in the hands of the laity.  This change of policy has occasioned a good deal of surprise and an infinite deal of discussion.  Whatever may be its consequences, there is one consequence which it can not have, that of recovering to the President and his ministry the popularity they have lost.

Letter LIII.

Volterra.

  [This letter was casually omitted from its proper place near the
  beginning of the volume.]

Rome, April 15, 1835.