Tchergari contains about two hundred inhabitants, mostly fishermen employed by a Russian firm.  The houses, built of tree-trunks plastered with mud, had roofs of thatched reed, and were far more substantial and better built than any I had yet seen in Persia.  Fearing a reception like that of the previous evening, we had intended riding straight through the place to our destination for the night, when a European advanced to meet us through the snow.  Mr. V——­, a Russian, and overseer of the fishery, had made his hut as comfortable as circumstances would admit, and we were soon seated before a blazing fire (with a chimney!), discussing a plate of steaming shtchi, [C] washed down by a bottle of kaketi.  Roast mutton and pastry followed, succeeded by coffee and vodka (for we had the good luck to arrive at our host’s dinner-hour).  By the time cigarettes were under way we felt fully equal to the long cold ride of fifteen miles that separated us from our night’s halting-place, Alala Resht itself seemed at least thirty miles nearer than it had before dinner.

“You are bold,” said Mr. V——­, in French, “to attempt this journey at this time of year.  I do not mean as regards footpads and robbers reports concerning them are always greatly exaggerated; but the rivers are in a terrible state.  There is one just beyond Alala, that I know you cannot cross on horseback.  I will send a man on at once to try and get a boat for you, and you can pull the horses after you.  There is an Armenian at Alala, who will give you a lodging to-night” Mr. V——­ ’s good fare and several glasses of vodka considerably shortened our ride, and we arrived at Alala before dark, where a hearty welcome awaited us.  Turning in after a pipe and two or three glasses of tea, we slept soundly till time to start in the morning.  The outlook from our snug resting-place was not inviting—­the sky of a dirty grey, blowing hard, and snowing harder than ever.

Alala contains about eight hundred inhabitants.  The land surrounding it is thickly cultivated with rice and tobacco.  Neither are, however, exported in any quantity, the difficulties of transport to Astara or Enzelli being so great.

It is somewhat puzzling to a stranger to get at the names of places on the southern shores of the Caspian.  Most of the villages are known by more than one, but Alala rejoices in as many aliases as an old gaol-bird, viz.  Alala, Asalim, and Navarim.

Thanks to our Russian friend, a boat and a couple of men were awaiting us at the big river (I could not ascertain its name).  Entering it ourselves, we swam the horses over one by one.  It took us the best part of two hours.  Though only two hundred yards wide, they were off their legs nearly the whole way.  What we should have done without Mr. V——­ ’s aid I know not.