“Hats were of various shapes.  They were made of different kinds of felt, or of otter or goat’s skin, or of wool or cotton.  The expression chapeau de fleurs (hat of flowers), which continually occurs in ancient works, did not mean any form of hat, but simply a coronet of forget-me-nots or roses, which was an indispensable part of dress for balls or festivities down to the reign of Philippe de Valois (1347).  Frontlets (fronteaux), a species of fillet made of silk, covered with gold and precious stones, superseded the chapeau de fleurs, inasmuch as they had the advantage of not fading.  They also possessed the merit of being much more costly, and were thus the means of establishing in a still more marked manner distinctions in the social positions of the wearers.

[Illustration:  Fig. 420.—­Costumes of a rich Bourgeoise, of a Peasant-woman, and of a Lady of the Nobility, of the Fourteenth Century.—­From various painted Windows in the Churches of Moulins (Bourbonnais).]

[Illustration:  Saint Catherine Surrounded by the Doctors of Alexandria.

A miniature from the Breviary of the cardinal Grimani, attributed to Memling.

Bibl. of Saint-Marc, Venice.

(From a copy belonging to M. Ambroise Firmin-Didot.)]

“There were two kinds of mantles; one was open in front, and fell over the back, and a strap which crossed the chest held it fixed on the shoulders; the other, enveloping the body like a bell, was slit up on the right side, and was thrown back over the left arm; it was made with a fur collar, cut in the shape of a tippet.  This last has been handed down to us, and is worn by our judges under the name of toge and epitoge.

“It is a very common mistake to suppose that the shirt is an article of dress of modern invention; on the contrary, it is one of great antiquity, and its coming into general use is the only thing new about it.

“Lastly, we have to mention the chape, which was always regarded as a necessary article of dress.  The chape was the only protection against bad weather at a period when umbrellas and covered carriages were unknown.  It was sometimes called chape de pluie, on account of the use to which it was applied, and it consisted of a large cape with sleeves, and was completely waterproof.  It was borne behind a master by his servant, who, on account of this service was called a porte-chape. It is needless to say that the common people carried it themselves, either slung over their backs, or folded under the arm.”