stuffs.  The tables are covered with fringed table-cloths, and strewn with odoriferous herbs; one of them, called the Great Table, is reserved for the persons of distinction.  The guests are taken to their seats by two butlers, who bring them water to wash.  The Great Table is laid out by a butler, with silver salt-cellars (Figs. 126 and 127), golden goblets with lids for the high personages, spoons and silver drinking cups.  The guests eat at least certain dishes on tranchoirs, or large slices of thick bread, afterwards thrown into vases called couloueres (drainers).  For the other tables the salt is placed on pieces of bread, scooped out for that purpose by the intendants, who are called porte-chappes. In the hall is a dresser covered with plate and various kinds of wine.  Two squires standing near this dresser give the guests clean spoons, pour out what wine they ask for, and remove the silver when used; two other squires superintend the conveyance of wine to the dresser; a varlet placed under their orders is occupied with nothing but drawing wine from the casks.”  At that time wine was not bottled, and they drew directly from the cask the amount necessary for the day’s consumption.  “The dishes, consisting of three, four, five, and even six courses, called mets or assiettes, are brought in by varlets and two of the principal squires, and in certain wedding-feasts the bridegroom walked in front of them.  The dishes are placed on the table by an asseeur (placer), assisted by two servants.  The latter take away the remains at the conclusion of the course, and hand them over to the squires of the kitchen who have charge of them.  After the mets or assiettes the table-cloths are changed, and the entremets are then brought in.  This course is the most brilliant of the repast, and at some of the princely banquets the dishes are made to imitate a sort of theatrical representation.  It is composed of sweet dishes, of coloured jellies of swans, of peacocks, or of pheasants adorned with their feathers, having the beak and feet gilt, and placed on the middle of the table on a sort of pedestal.  To the entremets, a course which does not appear on all bills of fare, succeeds the dessert.  The issue, or exit from table, is mostly composed of hypocras and a sort of oublie called mestier; or, in summer, when hypocras is out of season on account of its strength, of apples, cheeses, and sometimes of pastries and sweetmeats.  The boute-hors (wines and spices) end the repast.  The guests then wash their hands, say grace, and pass into the chambre de parement or drawing-room.  The servants then sit down and dine after their masters.  They subsequently bring the guests wine and epices de chambre, after which each retires home.”

[Illustration:  Figs. 126 and 127.—­Sides of an Enamelled Salt-cellar, with six facings representing the Labours of Hercules, made at Limoges, by Pierre Raymond, for Francis I.]