At a later period the luxury of side-dishes consisted in the quantity and in the variety of the pastry; Rabelais names sixteen different sorts at one repast; Taillevent mentions pastry called covered pastry, Bourbonnaise pastry, double-faced pastry, pear pastry, and apple pastry; Platina speaks of the white pastry with quince, elder flowers, rice, roses, chestnuts, &c.  The fashion of having pastry is, however, of very ancient date, for in the book of the “Proverbs” of the thirteenth century, we find that the pies of Dourlens and the pastry of Chartres were then in great celebrity.

[Illustration:  Fig. 124.—­The Table of a Baron, as laid out in the Thirteenth Century.—­Miniature from the “Histoire de St. Graal” (Manuscript from the Imperial Library, Paris).]

In a charter of Robert le Bouillon, Bishop of Amiens, in 1311, mention is made of a cake composed of puff flaky paste; these cakes, however, are less ancient than the firm pastry called bean cake, or king’s cake, which, from the earliest days of monarchy, appeared on all the tables, not only at the feast of the Epiphany, but also on every festive occasion.

Amongst the dry and sweet pastries from the small oven which appeared at the issue de table, the first to be noticed were those made of almonds, nuts, &c., and such choice morsels, which were very expensive; then came the cream or cheesecakes, the petits choux, made of butter and eggs; the echaudes, of which the people were very fond, and St. Louis even allowed the bakers to cook them on Sundays and feast days for the poor; wafers, which are older than the thirteenth century; and lastly the oublies, which, under the names of nieules, esterets, and supplications, gave rise to such an extensive trade that a corporation was established in Paris, called the oublayeurs, oublayers, or oublieux, whose statutes directed that none should be admitted to exercise the trade unless he was able to make in one day 500 large oublies, 300 supplications, and 200 esterets.

Repasts and Feasts.

We have had to treat elsewhere of the rules and regulations of the repasts under the Merovingian and Carlovingian kings.  We have also spoken of the table service of the thirteenth century (see chapter on “Private Life").  The earliest author who has left us any documents on this curious subject is that excellent bourgeois to whom we owe the “Menagier de Paris.”  He describes, for instance, in its fullest details, a repast which was given in the fourteenth century by the Abbe de Lagny, to the Bishop of Paris, the President of the Parliament, the King’s attorney and advocate, and other members of his council, in all sixteen guests.  We find from this account that “my lord of Paris, occupying the place of honour, was, in consequence of his rank, served on covered dishes by three of his squires, as was the custom for the King, the royal princes, the dukes, and peers; that Master President, who was seated by the side of the bishop, was also served by one of his own servants, but on uncovered dishes, and the other guests were seated at table according to the order indicated by their titles or charges.”