andiamo a vedere altra cosa.  He conducted me then to the citadel, or rather place where the citadel stood, and which now forms a vast barrack for the Austrian troops.  We then went to visit the Teatro Olimpico, which was built by Napoleon.  It is built in the style of the Roman amphitheatres, but much more of an oval form than the Roman amphitheatres were in general; that is to say, the transverse axis is much longer in proportion to the conjugate diameter than is the case in the Roman amphitheatres, and it is by no means so high.  In the time of Napoleon, games were executed in this circus in imitation of the games of the ancients, for Napoleon had a great hankering to ape the Roman Caesars in everything.  There were, for instance, gymnastic exercises, races on foot, horse races, chariot races like those of the Romans, combats of wild beasts, and as water can be introduced into the arena, there were sometimes exhibited naumachiae or naval fights.  These exhibitions were extremely frequent at Milan during the vice-regency of Prince Eugene Napoleon; during this Government, indeed, Milan flourished in the highest degree of opulence and splendour and profited much by being one of the principal depots of the inland trade between France and Italy, during the continental blockade, besides enjoying the advantage of being the seat of Government during the existence of the Regno d’Italia.  Even now, tho’ groaning under the leaden sceptre of Austria, it is one of the most lively and splendid cities I ever beheld; and I made this remark to a Milanese.  He answered with a deep sigh:  “Ah!  Monsieur, si vous aviez ete ici dans le temps du Prince Eugene!  Mais aujourd’hui nous sommes ruines.”

My next visit was to the Porta del Sempione, which is at a short distance from the amphitheatre, and which, were it finished, would be the finest thing of the kind in Europe; it was designed, and would have been completed by Napoleon, had he remained on the throne.  Figures representing France, Italy, Fortitude and Wisdom adorn the facade and there are several bas-reliefs, among which is one representing Napoleon receiving the keys of Milan after the battle of Marengo.  All is yet unfinished; columns, pedestals, friezes, capitals and various other architectural ornaments, besides several unhewn blocks of marble, lie on the ground; and probably this magnificent design will never be completed for no other reason than because it was imagined by Napoleon and might recall his glories.  Verily, Legitimacy is childishly spiteful!

Yesterday morning I went to see an Italian comedy represented at the Teatro Re.  The piece was l’Ajo nell’ imbarazzo—­a very droll and humorous piece—­but it was not well acted, from the simple circumstance of the actors not having their parts by heart, and the illusion of the stage is destroyed by hearing the prompter’s voice full as loud as that of the actors, who follow his promptings something in the same way that the clerk follows the clergyman in that prayer of the Anglican liturgy which says “we have erred and strayed from our ways like lost sheep.”  An Italian audience is certainly very indulgent and good-natured, as they never hiss, however miserable the performance.