epoch of his life.  One evening at the Ecu de Geneve I found Zadera in altercation on political subjects with two French Ultras who had been emigrants, a Genevois and a Bernois, both anti-liberal.  This was fearful odds for poor Zadera to be alone against four acharnes.  I sat down and espoused his cause and we maintained our argument gloriously.  The dispute began on the occasion of Zadera condemning the harshness shewn by the government of Geneva towards the Conventionnels and others who were banished from France on the second restoration of Louis XVIII by a vote of the Chambre introuvable in refusing them an asylum in the Republic and compelling them to depart immediately in a very contumelious manner.  I said it was inconsistent and unworthy of the Genevese who called themselves republicans to persecute or join in the persecution of the republicans of France in order to please foreign despots.  The others then began to be very violent with me.  I replied, “Messieurs, vous avez beau parler; les Genevois sont de tres bons cambistes et les meilleurs banquiers de l’Europe, mais il ne sont pas bons republicains.”

Geneva has been so often described by tourists that I shall not attempt any description except to remark that there are several good Cabinets and collections of pictures belonging to individuals.  There is a magnificent public library.  The manufactures are those of watches and models of the Alps which are exceedingly ingenious.  There are no theatrical amusements here; and during divine service on Sunday the gates of the city are shut, and neither ingress nor egress permitted; fortunately their liturgy (the Calvinistic) is at least one hour shorter than the Anglican.  Balls and concerts take place here very often and the young Genevois of both sexes are generally proficient in music.  They amuse themselves too in summer with the “tir de l’arc” in common with all the Swiss Cantons.

October 3rd.

I have been in doubt whether I should go to Lausanne, return to Paris or extend my journey into Italy; but I have at length decided for the latter, as Zadera, who intends to start immediately for Milan, has offered me a place in his carriage a frais communs.  I found him so agreeable a man and possessing sentiments so analogous to my own that I eagerly embraced the offer, and we are to cross the Simplon, so that I shall behold a travel over that magnificent chausee made by Napoleon’s orders, which I have so much desired to see and which everybody tells me is a most stupendous work and exceeding anything ever made by the Romans.  As the Chevalier has served in Italy and was much repandu in society there, I could not possibly have a pleasanter companion.  He has with him Dante and Alfieri, and I have Gessner’s Idylls and my constant travelling companion Ariosto, so that we shall have no loss for conversation, for when our native wits are exhausted, a page or two from any of the above authors will suggest innumerable ideas, anecdotes, and subjects of discourse.