pursuits, their dignified politeness to visitors and the intelligent answers they give to questions.  I am afraid our British veterans, brave as they are in the field, occupy themselves, when laid up as invalids, more in destroying their bodies by spirituous liquors than in improving their minds by reading.  The Chapel of this establishment where were displayed the banners and trophies taken at different epochs from the enemies of France, and which were much mutilated by the wars since the Revolution, is now stripped of all the ensigns of glory.  They were all burned by the French themselves previous to the capitulation of Paris in 1814, in order to prevent their falling into the hands of the enemy.  An old soldier who was my guide related this with tears in his eyes, but suddenly checking himself said:  “Mais telle est l’histoire.”

The only things now in this Chapel that interest the eye of the traveller are the monuments of Vauban and Turenne.  Of the rest nought remains but the brilliant souvenirs.

        Fuit Ilium, et ingens
  Gloria Teucrorum!...[39]

I had a great deal of difficulty in inducing this old soldier to accept of three franks; I told him at last that, as he did not want it himself, to take it and give it to somebody that did.  I then visited the rest of the establishment.  There is a whole range of rooms which contains models or plans in relief of all the fortresses of France; they are admirably and most minutely executed; not only the fortifications and public buildings, but the private houses, the gardens, orchards, meadows, mountains, hill and dale, bridges, trees, every feature of the ground in fine and of the surrounding country are given in miniature.  In fact it gives you the same idea of the places themselves and of the environing country as if you were held up in the air over them to inspect them; or as if you viewed them from a balloon at the distance of 800 yards from the earth.  The models of Strassburg, Lille and three or four others have been taken away by the Austrians and Prussians, but I have seen those of Calais, Dunkirk, Villefranche, Toulon, and Brest, and in fact almost every other French fortress.  This is one of the most interesting sights in Paris, and for this we are certainly indebted to the occupation; for I question much if travellers were ever permitted to see these models until Paris fell into the hands of the Allies.  Prussian sentries do duty at the doors; how grating this must be to the old invalids!  Among the models I must not omit to mention a very curious one which represents the battle of Lodi.  The town of Lodi, the bridge and river are admirably executed.  The soldiers are represented by little figures about a quarter of an inch in height and cobwebs are disposed so as to represent the smoke of the firearms, Buonaparte and his staff are on horseback on one side of the bridge.  There is also a very fine model of the Hotel des Invalides itself.