After Waterloo: Reminiscences of European Travel 1815-1819 eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 524 pages of information about After Waterloo.

After Waterloo: Reminiscences of European Travel 1815-1819 eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 524 pages of information about After Waterloo.

We brought to the night at a large village where there is an excellent inn; and the next day, the Leopoldsberg, bursting forth to view, announced to us the approach to Vienna.  We anchored at Nussdorf, where there is a Custom house, and from whence the distance to Vienna is about one and half mile English.  After having my trunk examined, I hired a hackney coach and drove into Vienna.  The barriers beyond the suburb are called Lines, and between the Suburbs and the old town is an Esplanade.  We entered the Suburbs by the Waehringer Linie, and the old town by the Rothes Thor (Red gate); and from thence I repaired to the inn Zum weissen Wolf (white Wolf) in the Altem Fleischmarkt (old meat-market).

VIENNA, Augt. 4.

The old town of Vienna is not very large, since you can walk round its circumference on the ramparts in two hours.  It was formerly fortified, but the French blew up the fortifications, leaving only the rampart; and by so doing they did a thing of great utility for the Viennese, and gave to the Austrian government an excellent opportunity of joining the old town to the magnificent faubourgs, by filling up the esplanade which separates them with streets and squares, which would prevent the unpleasant effects of dust in dry, and the mud in wet weather, for this dust and mud renders the esplanade almost at all times a disagreeable promenade, there being a sharp wind prevalent almost the whole year at Vienna, which blows about the dust en tourbillons.  Here then was an excellent opportunity, afforded by the blowing up of the fortifications, of paving the whole of the esplanade and filling it up with streets.  But no! the Austrian government seem determined upon restoring the fortifications, and a considerable number of workmen are employed.  This is very silly, for these fortifications are not of the least use against a foreign enemy, inasmuch as the enemy can always erect his batteries among the faubourgs and need only make one parallel, the protection and cover afforded to him by the faubourgs rendering the other two superfluous.  The faubourgs are by far the finest part of the city, and the garrison of the old town, in endeavouring to defend it, would destroy by every shot they should fire the fine buildings on the faubourgs.  Of the folly of making such a defence they were made fully sensible in 1809.  One of the Archdukes threw himself into the old town of Vienna, with an intention of defending it to the last and refused to surrender.  Napoleon caused batteries to be erected on the Rennweg or Corso covered by the church of St Charles, the Manege and Palace of the Hungarian noble guard, all magnificent buildings in the faubourgs.  He then summoned the garrison of the old town again to surrender saying:  “Every shot fired against the besiegers destroys your own most valuable property and finest edifices.”  This argument, backed by the entreaties of the citizens,

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After Waterloo: Reminiscences of European Travel 1815-1819 from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.