the river Isar rushes between immense mountains, and
forms a continual descent until the plains of Bavaria
open to view, you may conceive with what rapidity
we went. We encountered several falls of water
of two, three, four and sometimes five feet which we
had to
shoot, which no boat could possibly
do without being upset. The lower part of the
raft was frequently under water in making these
shoots
and we were obliged to hold on fast to our seats to
prevent being jerked off. Nothing can be more
romantic and picturesque than this journey, and there
is something aweful in
shooting these falls;
these rafts are, however, so solidly constructed that
there is no danger whatever. They can neither
sink nor upset. We arrived and halted the evening
at Toelz, a large village or town on the right bank
of the Isar. What gives to Toelz a remarkably
singular appearance is, that on a height at a short
distance from the town, and hanging abruptly over
the river, you perceive several figures in wood, larger
than the life, which figures form groups, representing
the whole history of the passion of Jesus Christ.
At a short distance, if you are not prepared for this,
you suppose that they are real men, and that a procession
or execution is going forward. On landing I immediately
ascended this hill in order to observe this curiosity,
and there I beheld the following groups, first:
Christ in the midst of his disciples preaching; secondly:
the disciples asleep in a cave, and Christ watching
and praying; next was Judas betraying Christ to the
soldiery; then the judgment of Christ before Pilate;
then Christ bearing his cross to the place of execution;
and lastly the crucifixion on Mount Calvary.
The ground is curiously laid out so as to represent,
as much as possible, the ground in the environs of
Jerusalem. Toelz is a pretty village, but contains
nothing more remarkable than the above groups.
The next day at twelve o’clock we perceived
the spires of Munich, and at two anchored close to
one of the bridges from whence, having hired a wheelbarrow
to trundle my portmanteau, I repaired to the inn called
the Golden Cross—Zum goldenen Kreutz.
At Toelz the Rhetian Alps recede from the view; the
landscape then presents a sloping plain which is perfectly
level within four miles of Munich. The river widens
immediately on issuing from the gorges of the Tyrol
and for the last five miles we were followed by boys
on the banks of the river, begging for wood, with which
our raft was laden, and we threw to them many a faggot.
Wood is the great export from the Tyrol to Bavaria,
as the latter is a flat country and has not much wood,
with which on the contrary the Tyrol abounds.
A sensible difference of climate is now felt and the
air is keener than in the Tyrol. The price of
a place on the raft from Mittenwald to Munich cost
only one florin, and at Toelz an excellent supper,
bed and coffee in the morning cost me only one florin.