from the rays of the sun.  The houses diminish in height in proportion as they are built on the slant of the mountain from the bottom to the top, those at the bottom being the loftiest.  Carriages are scarcely of any use in the city of Genoa, except to drive from one end of the town to another thro’ the streets Nuova, Balbi and Nuovissima; and accordingly a carriage with four wheels, or even with two, is a rare conveyance in Genoa.  The general mode of conveyance is on a sedan chair, carried by porters, or on the backs of mules or asses.  Genoa is distinguished by the beauty of the Palaces of its patricians, which are more numerous and more magnificent than those of any other city, probably, in the world.

The Ducal Palace or Palace of Government, where the Doge used to reside, claimed my first attention; yet, tho’ much larger, it is far less splendid than many of the Palaces of individual patricians.  In fact, the Ducal Palace is built in the Gothic taste and resembles a Gothic fortress, having round towers at each angle.  The Hall, where the Grand Council used to sit, is superb, and is adorned with columns of jaune antique.  On the plafond is a painting representing the discovery of America by Columbus; for the Genoese duly appreciate, and never can forget their illustrious countryman.  The lines of Tasso, “Un uom della Liguria avra ardimento,” etc., and the following stanza, Tu spiegherai Colombo a urn nuovo polo, etc. are in the mouth of everyone.[117] The Hall of the Petty Council is neat, but it is the recollection of the history of this once famous Republic that renders the examination of this Palace so interesting.  But now Genoa’s glory is gone; she has been basely betrayed into the hands of a Government she most detested.  The King of Sardinia is nowhere; and he is not a little proud of being the possessor of such a noble sea port, which enables him to rank as a maritime power.

The Genoese are laborious and make excellent sailors; but now there is nothing to animate them; and they will never exert themselves in the service of a domination which is so little congenial to them.  They sigh for their ancient Government, of whose glories they had so often heard and whose brilliant exploits have been handed down to the present day not merely by historical writers and poets, but by improvisatori from mouth to mouth.  The Genoese nobles, those merchant Kings, whose riches exceeded at one time those of the most powerful monarchs of Europe, who were the pawn-brokers to those Sovereigns, are now in a state of decay.  Commerce can only flourish on the soil of liberty, and takes wing at the sight of military and sacerdotal chains; and tho’ the present Sovereign affects to caress the Genoese noblesse, they return his civilities with sullen indifference, and half concealed contempt and aversion.  The commerce of Genoa is transferred to Leghorn, which increases in prosperity as the former decays.