After the carriages have paraded about an hour, a
signal is given by the firing of a gun that the horse
race is about to begin. The carriages, on the
gun being fired, must immediately evacuate the Corso
in order to leave it clear for the race; some move
off and rendezvous on the Piazza del Popolo
just behind the scaffolding, from the foot of which
the horses start; others file off by the Via Ripetta
and take their stand on the Piazza Colonna.
The horse-race is performed by horses without riders,
generally five or six at a time. They are each
held with a bridle or halter by a man who stands by
them, in order to prevent their starting before the
signal is given; and this requires no small degree
of force and dexterity, as the horses are exceedingly
impatient to set off. The manes of the horses
are dressed in ribbands of different colours to distinguish
them. Pieces of tin, small bells and other noisy
materials are fastened to their manes and tails, in
order by frightening the poor animals, to make them
run the faster, and with this view also squibs and
crackers are discharged at them as they pass along.
A second gun is the signal for starting; the keepers
loose their hold, and off go the horses. The
horse that arrives the first at the goal wins the
grand prize; and there are smaller ones for the two
next. This race is repeated four or five times
till dusk, and then the company separate and return
home to dress. They then repair to the balls at
the different casinos, and at the conclusion of the
ball, supper parties are formed either at restaurants
or at each other’s houses. During the time
occupied in the balls and promenades, as every body
goes masked either in character or in domino,
there is a fine opportunity for pairing off, and it
is no doubt turned to account. This is a pretty
accurate account of a Roman Carnaval. A great
deal of wit and repartee takes place among the masks
and they are in general extremely well supported, and
indeed they ought to be, for there is a great sameness
of character assumed at every masquerade, and very
little novelty is struck out, except perhaps by some
foreigner, who chuses to introduce a national character
of his own, which is probably but little, or not at
all, understood by the natives, and very often not
at all well supported by the foreigner himself.
An American gentleman once made his appearance as
an Indian warrior with his war-hatchet and calumet;
he danced the war dance, which excited great astonishment.
He then presented his calumet to a mask, who not knowing
what the ceremony meant, declined it, when the Mohawk
flourished his hatchet and gave such a dreadful shriek
as to set the whole company in alarm.[112] On the
whole this character was so little understood that
it was looked upon as a mauvaise plaisanterie.
The usual characters are Pulcinelli, Arlecchini, Spanish Grandees, Turks, fortune tellers, flower girls and Devils; sometimes too they go in the costume of the Gods and Goddesses of the ancient mythology. I observe that the English ladies here prefer to appear without masks in the costume of the Swiss and Italian peasantry.


