such as Zug and Schwytz, where it is merely nominal.  In short, tranquillity is the order of the day.  Each rank respects the privileges of the other and the peasant, however rich, is not at all disposed to vary from his usual mode of life or to ape the noble; and hence, tho’ sumptuary laws are no longer in force, they continue so virtually and the peasantry in all the German cantons adhere strictly to the national costume.

BERN, 14 July.

I put myself in the diligence that plies between Neufchatel and Bern at nine p.m., on the 12 July, and the following morning put up at the Crown Inn in the city of Bern, in the Pays Allemand, whereas the French cantons are termed the Pays Romand.  Bern is a remarkably elegant city as much so as any in Italy, and much cleaner withal.  The streets are broad, and in most of them are trottoirs under arcades.  There are a great number of book-sellers here, and the best editions of the German authors are to be procured very cheap.  Bern is situated on an eminence forming almost an island as it were in the middle of the river Aar; steep ravines are on all sides of it; and there is a bridge over the Aar to keep up the communication; and as the borders of the island, on which the city stands, are very steep, a zig-zag road, winding along the ravines, brings you to the city gates.  These gates are very superb.  On each side of the gates are two enormous white stone bears, the emblems of the tutelary genius of this city.  The houses are very lofty and solidly built.  The promenades in the environs of Bern are the finest I have seen anywhere, and the grounds allotted to this purpose are very tastefully laid out.  These promenades are paved with gravel and cut thro’ the forests, that lie on the coteaux and ravines on the other side of the Aar.  There are several neat villas in the neighbourhood of these promenades, and there are cafes and restaurants for those who chuse to refresh themselves.  Such is the beauty of these walks, that one feels inclined to pass the whole day among them.  They are laid out in such variety, and are so multiplied, that you often lose your way; you are sure however to be brought up by a point de vue at one or other of the angles of the zig-zag; and this serves as a guide pour vous orienter, as the French say.  Another favorite promenade is a garden, in the town itself, that environs the whole city from which and from the superb terrace of the Cathedral you have a magnificent view of the glaciers that tower above the Grindelwald and Lauterbrunn.  The immense forests that are in the neighbourhood of Bern form a striking contrast with the cornfields in the vallies and on the coteaw. There are but few vineyards in the neighbourhood of Bern.

BERN, 16 July.