On arrival at Lyons we put up at the Hotel du Parc, where I found cheaper and better entertainment than at the Hotel du Nord.

My friend young Wardle has fallen in love with a very beautiful cafetiere at Lyons’, and spends a great part of his time in the cafe, at which this nymph administers, and looks at her, sighs, looks and sighs again.  It is not probable however that he will succeed in his suit, for she has been courted by very many others and no one has succeeded.  She remains constant to her good man, and the breath of calumny has never ventured to assail her.  I met one day at Lyons with my old friend W——­s of Strassburg, who was a Lieutenant in the 25th Regiment in the French service and served in the battle of Waterloo.[105] He is now here and being on demi-solde, employs himself in a mercantile house here as principal commis.  He dined with us and we passed a most pleasant day together.

I arrived on the 20th April at Lausanne.

* * * * *

After remaining some weeks, at Lausanne on my return from Clermont, I determind on making a pedestrian trip as far as Bern and Neufchatel previous to returning into Italy, which it is my intention to do in September.  I sent on my portmanteau accordingly to Payerne near Avenches, intending to pay a visit and pass three days with my friend, the Revd.  Mr. J[omini],[106] the rector of the parish there, from whom I had received a pressing invitation.  I was acquainted at Lausanne with his daughter, Mme C——­, and was much pleased in her society.  She had great talent of conversation, and I never in my life met with a lady possessed of so much historical knowledge.  I started on the 27th June from Lausanne, passed the first night at Mondon and the next afternoon arrived at Avenches, the Aventicum of the ancient Romans.  Payerne is only a mile distant from Avenches, and I was received with the utmost cordiality by the worthy pastor and his daughter.  The scenery on the road to Avenches is very like the scenery in all the rest of the Canton de Vaud, viz., alternate mountain and valley, lofty trees, and every spot capable of cultivation bearing some kind of produce; corn just ready for the sickle and fruit such as cherries and strawberries in full bloom.  Avenches has an air of great antiquity and looks very gloomy withal, which forms a striking contrast to the neat, well built towns and villages of this Canton on the banks of the lake Leman where everything appears so stirring and cheerful.  Avenches, on the contrary, is very dull, and there is little society.

At Mr. J[omini] there were, besides his daughter, his son and his son’s wife.  All the ministres (for such is the word in use to designate Protestant clergymen and you would give great offence were you to call them pretres) have a fixed salary of 100L sterling per annum, with a house and ground attached to the cure; so that by farming a little they can maintain then? families creditably.  M. Jomini lost his wife some time ago, and still remains a widower.